THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA 

OSBURN 


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*  ^  -      NEW  YORK 

PUBLISHED  BY  THE.  NEW  YORK  ZOOLOGICAL  SOCIETY 
•    "  •  •  '» 

•  '  •  .      in  ARCH,  1914 


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Nnu  fcrh  Aquarium  Nature  S^nuB 

Sea  Shore  Life:— The  Invertebrates  of  the  New  York  Coast. 

By  A.  G.  Mayer.     Bound.     181  pp.     119  illust $1.20 

The  Cultivation  of  Fishes  in  Natural  and  Artificial  Ponds:-- 

By  C.  H.  Townsend.    Pamphlet.    32  pp.     13  illust 20 

Chameleons  of  the  Sea: — Some  New  Observations  on  Instan- 
taneous Color  Changes  Among  Fishes.  By  C.  H. 
Townsend.  Pamphlet.    7  pp.    9  illust.  1  colored  plate.  .15 

The  Northern  Elephant  Seal :--By  C.  H.  Townsend.  Pamph- 
let.    17  pp.     -^1   illust .25 

The  Care  of  Home  Aquaria:~By  R.  C.  Osburn.     Pamphlet. 

63  pp.     30  illust 25 

The  Porpoise  in  Captivity: — By  C.  H.  Townsend.  Pamphlet. 

11  pp,     14  illust .25 


For  sale  at  the  Aquarium,  Battery  Park. 
By  mail:  pamphlets,  2c.  extra. 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA 

■R^Y^t'^i  *-'  OSBURN 


Copyright,  1914,  by 
THE  NEW  YORK  ZOOLOGICAL  SOCIETY 


(Elark  5:  IFritta 

PRINTERS 

209  WEST  38TH   STREET 

NEW  YORK 


PREFACE. 

This  volume  of  the  New  York  Aquarium  Nature  Series  has 
been  prepared  with  a  view  to  giving  concise  information  as  to 
the  best  methods  of  caring  for  small  aquaria  in  the  home.  It 
deals  especially  with  the  balanced  aquarium,  since  this  is  un- 
doubtedly the  best  type  of  aquarium  for  home  use.  Not  only 
does  it  approach  more  nearly  to  the  natural  conditions  of  life  in 
small  ponds,  and  therefore  is  of  more  value  as  an  object  for 
study,  but  it  is  easier  to  care  for  and  is  independent  of  all  con- 
nections with  water  pipes  and  machinery.  It  is,  of  course,  quite 
possible  to  have  a  circulation  of  water  even  in  small  aquarium 
tanks,  but  this  involves  connections  with  water  pipes  or  com- 
plicated machinery  with  greater  expense.  The  balanced  aquari- 
um requires  no  costly  or  complicated  apparatus ; — merely  a 
tank  with  a  few  of  the  simplest  implements,  which,  for  the  most 
part,  can  just  as  well  be  made  at  home.  Such  aquaria  yield  a 
maximum  of  interest  with  a  minimum  of  care  and  expense  and 
are,  therefore,  the  most  useful  of  all  small  aquaria. 

Requests  for  information  as  to  the  care  of  such  aquaria 
have  been  received  so  frequently  at  the  New  York  Aquarium, 
that  in  March,  1912,  the  writer  prepared  for  publication  a  bul- 
letin entitled  "The  Balanced  Aquarium"  (Bulletin  No.  50,  New 
York  Zoological  Society,  March,  1912).  An  edition  of  1000 
copies  was  placed  on  sale  at  the  Aquarium,  but  this  was 
exhausted  in  a  few  months.  The  demands  for  information  have 
not  ceased,  however,  and  to  meet  this  need  the  former  bulletin 
has  been  rewritten  and  much  extended  and  is  again  offered  to 
the  public  under  the  present  title. 

No  attempt  has  been  made  to  discuss  the  various  animals 
and  plants  of  the  Aquarium,  since  this  w^ould  necessitate  a  very 
much  larger  volume.  It  is  the  writer's  intention  merely  to 
explain  the  conditions  of  life  in  the  balanced  aquarium  and  to 
indicate  how  those  conditions  can  best  be  maintained  in  the  sim- 
plest fashion. 

The  work  is  not  intended  for  those  who  are  already  experi- 
enced aquarists,  but  for  the  use  of  beginners  in  the  subject  who 
wish  to  become  expert  in  this  delectable  occupation. 


CONTENTS. 

Page 

List  of  Illustrations    9 

Introduction 11 

The  meaning  of  balance  16 

The  aquarium  tank  18 

Temperature  21 

Placing  the  aquarium  22 

Planting  the  aquarium  23 

List  of  common  plants  27 

Stocking  the  aquarium  28 

Common  aquarium  fishes  — 34 

Animals  that  will  live  well  together  35 

Feeding   36 

Cleaning  the  aquarium  41 

Marine  aquaria    46 

The   terrarium   49 

Diseases  and  parasites : 

Diseases  51 

Plant  parasites  54 

Bacteria  -. 55 

Animal  parasites   56 

The  care  of  young  fishes  58 

The  use  of  lenses  "  ^^ 

The  study  of  aquaria  ^1 

Publications  of  interest  to  the  aquarist  62 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Page 

Balanced  Aquaria  in  the  New  York  Aquarium  Frontispiece 

Yellow   Perch   13 

Balanced  Aquaria 14 

A  Balanced  Salt  Water  Aquarium  17 

Portable  Metal  Frame  Aquarium 19 

Mosquito  Larvae:  all  Glass  Aquarium  20 

Gourami 22 

Long-Eared  Sunfish  in  a  Balanced  Aquarium  23 

Specimens  of  Axolotl,  New  York  Aquarium 24 

Common  Brook  Sucker 27 

Young  Catfish 29 

Common  Newt  30 

Development  of  The  Frog 32 

Common  Salt  Water  Shrimp  33 

The  Siren  35 

Soft-Shelled  Turtle  36 

Soft-Shelled  Turtle  (upper  side)  37 

Young  Geographic  Turtles  39 

White  Sea  Anemone 40 

Implements  of  use  to  the  Aquarist 42 

Sea-Lettuce   44 

Balanced  Salt  Water  Aquarium  45 

Young  Tautog,  or  Blackfish  47 

Star  Fish — Expanded 48 

Terrarium  in  Aquarium  Jar  50 

Mudfish  or  Bowfin  51 

Common  Roach  in  Balanced  Aquarium  53 

Young  Mirror  Carp  55 

Sticklebacks  57 

Tiihularia  and  Astrcmgia  59 


THE  CARE  OF  SMALL  AQUARIA 

By  RAYMOND  C.   OSBURN,  Ph.  D. 

ASSISTANT  DIRECTOR  OF  THE  NEW  YORK  AQUARIUM. 

INTRODUCTION. 

Small  aquaria  as  objects  of  interest  and  decoration  in  the 
house  have  become  so  common  that  their  presence  no  longer 
attracts  special  comment,  though  the  custom  of  keeping  them  is 
of  comparatively  recent  origin.  Goldfishes  have  been  bred  by 
the  Chinese  and  other  oriental  peoples  for  several  centuries,  but 
chiefly  in  small  out-door  pools  in  the  gardens. 

The  balanced  aquarium  has  been  clearly  defined  by  Mr. 
Henry  D.  Butler,  in  a  book  entitled,  "The  Family  Aquarium" 
(New  York,  1858),  in  the  following  terms:  "The  aquarium  is  a 
receptacle  for  aquatic  animal  and  vegetable  life  in  fresh  or 
salt  water,  which  need  never  be  changed.  The  old-fashioned  fish 
globes  were  not  aquaria  in  the  proper  sense,  because  it  was  abso- 
lutely necessary  to  change  the  water  in  them  pretty  frequently, 
lest  the  fish  die.  The  vitalization  of  the  water  without  this 
change  comprehends  the  leading  principle  of  the  aquarium." 
Undoubtedly  the  failure  to  grasp  the  principle  of  proper  balance 
was  the  special  factor  which  prevented  the  small  aquarium  from 
becoming  popular  at  a  much  earlier  period. 

The  facts  that  animals  require  oxygen  in  respiration  and 
that  green  plants  give  off  oxygen  in  excess  were  discovered  and 
published  as  early  as  1778,  but  lovers  of  aquatic  life  were  slow  to 
apply  this  knowledge.  In  fact,  it  was  not  until  1850  that  the 
first  properly  balanced  aquarium  was  described  by  Mr.  Robert 
Warrington  of  Manchester,  England,  in  a  paper  entitled,  "On 
the  Adjustments  of  the  Relations  Between  the  Animal  and  Veg- 
etable Kingdoms,  by  Which  the  Vital  Functions  of  both  are  Per- 
manently Maintained." 

Warrington  found  that  goldfishes  could  be  maintained  in- 
definitely in  a  glass  jar  in  which  was  placed  some  tapegrass 
(Vallisneria)  to  supply  the  oxygen  and  with  the  addition  of  a 
few  pond  snails  to  clean  up  decayed  vegetation.  Further  experi- 
ments were  then  conducted  by  him  along  similar  lines  upon  ma- 


Library 

N.  C,  State  Collect 


12  NEW   YORK   AQUARIUM    NATURE   SERIES 

rine  animals  and  plants,  and  published  in  the  Annals  of  Natural 
History  for  November,  1853. 

The  work  of  .Mr.  Philip  Henry  Gosse  was  also  of  the  great- 
est importance  in  developing  the  balanced  aquarium,  and  his 
book.  "The  Aquarium,  an  Unveiling  of  the  Wonders  of  the  Deep 
Sea."  published  in  lcS54,  showed  how  rapid  had  been  the  ad- 
vancement in  the  study  of  the  marine  aquarium. 

In  England  and  Germany  the  small  balanced  aquarium  soon 
became  popular  in  the  home.  In  America  comparatively  little 
attention  has  been  paid  to  it,  although  a  few  enthusiastic  lovers 
of  aquatic  lile  have  maintained  aquaria  with  great  success  from 
the  time  the  principle  first  became  known.  The  late  Mr.  William 
Emerson  Damon  in  his  book,  ''Ocean  Wonders,"  credited  Miss 
Elizabeth  E.  Damon,  of  Windsor,  Vermont,  with  the  honor  of 
boing  the  first  person  in  the  United  States  to  keep  a  properly 
balanced  aquarium,  the  receptacle  being  a  two-quart  jar  sup- 
plied with  fishes,  tadpoles  and  pondweed  {Potamogeton) . 

The  idea  is  still  prevalent,  born  of  the  old  days  of  fish  globes 
and  persisting  through  ignorance,  like  many  other  exploded 
notions,  that  the  aquarium  requires  a  vast  amount  of  time  and 
fussing  and  especially  that  the  more  frequently  the  water  is 
changed,  the  better  it  will  be  for  the  animal  life.  Nothing  could 
be  farther  from  the  truth,  for  when  a  balance  is  secured  the  less 
changing  of  anything  the  better  it  will  be,  for  fear  of  disturbing 
the  nice  adjustment  which  Nature  has  set  up  and  the  ivater 
f^houhl  not  be  changed  at  all.  Yet  anyone  maintaining  a  bal- 
anced a(iuarium  will  agree  that  the  question  first  and  most  fre- 
quently asked  by  the  interested  visitor  is,  "How  often  do  you 
have  to  change  the  water?"  The  writer  has  known  persons  who 
for  years  had  kept  aquaria  equipped  with  plants  and  animals  for 
proper  balance,  who  still  thought  it  necessary  to  change  daily  all 
<ir  part  of  the  water  in  order  to  maintain  the  animal  life. 

The  writer  well  recalls  his  owm  early  attempts  as  a  child  to 
keep  small  native  fishes  in  an  aquariumi  made  of  a  cast-oflf  wash- 
boiler  partially  sunk  in  the  ground  in  the  garden,  and  the  inge- 
nuity with  which  he  rigged  a  small  tube  to  the  pump-spout  by 
the  horse  trough  so  that' when  anyone  pumped  water  a  small 
portion  would  escape  for  the  benefit  of  the  fishes.  A  few  water 
weeds  would  have  done  the  w^ork  of  aeration  more  successfully 
and  with  much  less  trouble ;  the  knowledge  of  the  proper  method 
was  lacking,  and  after  a  number  of  abortive  attempts  the  experi- 
ment was  given  up  in  despair.     I  have  no  doubt  that  thousands 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA 


la 


YELLOW     PERCH. 


of  persons  have  had  similar  experiences  with  various  kinds  of 
fish  globes  and  other  improper  aquarium  apparatus. 

Another  prevailing  notion  is,  that  the  small  aquarium  is 
simply  a  plaything  serving  to  amuse  the  children  or  to  afford  an 
outlet  for  the  energies  of  an  occasional  crank  and  that  its  only 
other  excuse  for  existence  is  found  in  the  fact  that  the  green 
plants  and  goldfishes  make  a  bright  spot  in  the  room.  Even  if 
this  were  all,  who  will  deny  that  its  existence  is  justified?  But 
excuses  are  not  necessary.  Let  it  serve  for  the  one  as  a  play- 
thing or  a  bright  spot  in  the  room,  but  for  the  person  who  cares 
to  study  the  life  in  the  aquarium — and  there  is  a  constantly 
increasing  number — the  aquarium  becomes  a  piece  of  scientific 
apparatus  from  which  can  be  learned  many  of  Nature's  laws 
that  regulate  the  outside  world. 

The  unbalanced  fish  globe  with  its  occasional  renewal  of 
w^ater  is  unnatural — as  unnatural  as  the  attempt  of  a  person  to 
live  in  a  closet  by  opening  the  door  once  a  day,  filling  the  space 
with  fresh  air,  then  shutting  off  all  ventilation  until  the  next 
day.  The  cases,  as  far  as  respiration  is  concerned,  are  exactly 
parallel. 

It  is  possible  to  supply  oxygen  to  fishes  in  the  small  aquari- 
um by  pumping  air  into  the  water  and  a  great  many  kinds  of 
apparatus  have  been  devised  for  this  purpose.     Some  of  these 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA  15 

run  by  water  power,  some  by  small  electric  motors,  some  by 
weights  or  clockwork,  etc.,  and  of  course  all  of  them  have  been 
patented.  They  have  this  advantage,  that  a  larger  number  of 
fishes  may  be  maintained  in  a  given  quantity  of  water  than  is 
possible  in  the  balanced  aquarium.  But  in  the  opinion  of  the 
writer  this  display  of  inventive  genius  has  been  largely  mis- 
directed, for  the  properly  balanced  home  aquarium  will  support 
a  sufficient  amount  of  animal  life  for  all  ordinary  purposes 
without  artificial  aeration.  Besides  the  balanced  aquarium  is 
much  more  instructive  since  it  approaches  more  nearly  to  natu- 
ral conditions. 

The  balance  of  plant  and  animal  life  means  complete  and 
continual  ventilation.  Not  only  is  oxygen  supplied  in  sufficient 
quantities  by  the  plants,  but  the  carbon  dioxide  given  off  by  the 
animals  in  respiration  is  consumed  by  the  plants  in  the  process 
of  starch  making.  The  adjustment  is  Nature's  own  and  all 
animals  are  adapted  to  it.  Such  an  arrangement  is  a  pond  iri 
miniature  and  may  be  used  in  the  scientific  study  of  aquatic  life 
of  various  kinds.  In  the  majority  of  cases,  to  be  sure,  only  gold- 
fi.shes  are  kept,  in  addition  to  a  few  tadpoles  or  snails  and  plants. 
According  to  the  interests  of  the  aquarist,  however,  this  may  be 
varied  indefinitely.  Many  other  attractive  exotic  fishes  of  strik- 
ing colors,  form  and  habits  may  be  readily  secured  from  dealers, 
or  the  collector  may  take  up  the  study  of  local  native  fishes,  the 
natural  history  of  which  will  be  found  no  less  interesting  than 
that  of  the  exotic  species. 

Aquatic  insects  afford  a  most  interesting  and  almost  infi- 
nitely varied  field  for  study,  and  their  habits,  metamorphoses, 
etc.,  may  be  most  readily  investigated  by  this  means.  Again,  if 
the  aquarist  is  interested  in  aquatic  botany,  he  will  find  here 
excellent  opportunities  and  means  for  studying  m.ary  water 
plants.  Marine  life  is  even  more  varied  than  that  of  the  fresh- 
water, and  endless  opportunities  are  afforded  to  those  who  live 
within  reach  of  the  sea.  The  microscopist  will  also  find  a  con- 
stantly changing  and  ever  interesting  field  of  research  in  the 
minute  life  of  the  aquarium. 

As  an  adjunct  to  the  scientific  laboratory,  the  aquarium  has 
become  a  necessity.  Here  it  may  vary  in  size  from  the  common 
finger-bowl  for  minute  animals  to  tanks  for  the  larger  forms. 
The  various  aquatic  laboratories  such  as  those  at  Wood's  Hole, 
Massachusetts,  and  at  Naples  in  Italy,  to  cite  two  of  the  best 
known,  make  constant  use  of  aquaria  and  could  scarcely  exist 


16  NEW   YORK   AQUARIUM    NATURE   SERIES 

without  them.  Nearly  all  colleges  and  universities  have  some 
means  of  maintaining  aquaria,  usually  of  the  balanced  sort, 
while  a  few  even  possess  facilities  for  the  storage  and  circula- 
tion of  sea  water  in  larger  tanks. 

Naturally,  larger  aquaria  have  the  advantage  of  supporting 
a  larger  and  more  varied  stock,  but  it  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  for  scientific  as  well  as  for  other  purposes,  the  proper 
adjustment  is  of  far  greater  value  than  mere  space  or  variety  of 
life.  In  the  high-school,  grade-school  and  even  in  the  kinder- 
garten, balanced  aquaria  have  found  a  place  where  they  encour- 
age nature  study  among  the  children.  The  New  York  Aquarium 
has  eciuipped  hundreds  of  these  for  various  schools  in  New  York 
City. 

THE  MEANING  OF  BALANCE. 

The  factors  which  govern  life  in  the  balanced  aquarium  are 
the  same  as  those  which  obtain  elsewhere  in  nature,  with  the 
important  difference  that  certain  of  them  are  under  control.  In 
fact  we  may  consider  the  aquarium  as  a  miniature  pond  in 
which  the  conditions  of  food,  temperature  and  aeration  are  under 
the  control  of  the  operator.  In  the  natural  pond  the  variations 
of  temperature  alone  are  sufficient  to  produce  important  cycles 
in  the  balance  and  in  the  life  of  the  organisms. 

To  secure  and  maintain  a  balance  in  the  indoor  aquarium  is 
the  most  important  problem  which  confronts  the  amateur  aquar- 
ist.  Temperature,  which  is  such  an  important  factor  in  the 
natural  pond,  can  easily  be  controlled  indoors  wathin  the  limits 
of  variation  which  are  likely  to  affect  seriously  the  inhabitants 
of  the  acjuarium.  Similarly  the  light  factor  usually  offers  but 
little  difliculty,  and  food  can  easily  be  added  in  the  necessary 
quantities. 

The  problem  of  aeration  is  more  difficult.  In  the  natural 
pond,  with  its  large  surface  ruffled  by  the  breeze,  this  takes  care 
of  itself,  since  a  sufficient  amount  of  oxygen  can  be  absorbed 
from  the  air  to  supply  all  the  animals  that  can  find  food  within 
its  waters ;  but  in  the  narrow  limits  of  the  aquarium,  with  its 
restricted  surface,  comparatively  greater  depth  and  the  absence 
of  any  agitation  of  the  water,  the  absorption  of  oxygen  at  the 
surface  does  not  take  place  with  sufficient  rapidity  to  sustain 
much  animal  life. 

To  supplement  the  surface  absorption  of  oxygen,  it  is  nec- 
essary to  grow  plants  in  the  aquarium.     It  is  a  well  known  fact 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA 


17 


iii;iii«i'iBMiii  JcgfWi- 


A    BALANCED    SALT    WATER    AQUARIUM. 


that  in  manufacturing  their  own  food  from  simple  substances 
plants  give  off  oxygen  as  a  waste  product.  This  process  is  ac- 
complished by  the  green  matter  of  the  plant,  a  special  kind  of 
protoplasm  known  as  chlorophyll.  In  the  submerged  plants  of 
the  aquarium  the  oxygen  passes  off  directly  by  absorption  into 
the  water.  The  fishes  are  thus  supplied  with  oxygen  given  off  by 
the  plants  as  waste  substance. 

Having  absorbed  the  oxygen  into  the  blood  by  means  of  the 
gills,  the  fishes  combine  it  with  the  carbon  of  the  food  to  obtain 
energy,  and,  in  the  process  of  respiration,  give  off  to  the  water 
quantities  of  carbon  dioxide,  or  carbonic  acid  gas,  as  a  waste 


18  NEW    YORK   AQUARIUM    NATURE   SERIES 

substance.  This  gas,  composed  of  carbon  and  oxygen,  is  ab- 
sorbed by  the  plants  and  the  carbon  used  in  the  process  of  starch 
making,  while  the  oxygen  is  returned  to  the  water  again  as  a 
waste  substance.  Thus  the  animals  and  the  plants  of  the  aquari- 
um are  mutually  benefited,  each  supplying  something  that  is 
reciuired  in  the  life  processes  of  the  other. 

Plants,  however,  are  able  to  manufacture  starch,  and  con- 
setiuently  absorb  carbon  dioxide  and  release  oxygen,  only  when 
they  are  exposed  to  sunlight.  It  follows  then  that  on  dark  days 
the  plants  have  less  capacity  for  aeration  than  on  bright  days, 
and  that  they  yield  more  oxygen  in  sunny  windows  than  in  dark 
corners.  ^Moreover  they  can  make  starch  and  consume  carbon 
dioxide  and  yield  oxygen  only  during  the  daytime.  Further  than 
this,  they  consume  a  small  amount  of  oxygen  in  their  o\vn  respi- 
ration both  day  and  night,  so  that  at  times  when  they  are  not 
engaged  in  starch-making  they  tend  to  consume  a  part  of  the 
oxygen  of  the  aquarium,  although  in  a  night  they  can  use  only  a 
small  portion  of  that  thrown  off  during  the  day.  If  the  water  of 
the  standing  aciuarium  is  supplied  with  an  excess  of  oxygen  dur- 
ing the  day,  a  considerable  amount  of  the  oxygen  will  remain  in 
solution  in  the  water  and  aid  in  proper  aeration  throughout  the 
night. 

it  is  evident  then  that  an  aquarium  well  stocked  with  plants 
v/ill  support  a  larger  quantity  of  animal  life  during  the  day  and 
in  bright  weather  than  it  will  at  night  or  on  dark  days.  The 
animal  life  of  the  standing  aquarium  must  therefore  be  regu- 
lated to  meet  the  poorest  rather  than  the  best  conditions  of  oxy- 
gen production  by  the  plant  life. 

Temperature  also  affects  the  rate  of  starch-making  and  con- 
sequently of  oxygen  elimination,  as  the  protoplasm  of  the  plant 
is  more  active  in  a  higher  than  a  lower  temperature.  However, 
the  fishes  are  also  less  active  in  colder  water  and  consume  less 
oxygen,  so  that  these  factors  balance  each  other  and  temperature 
does  not  especially  affect  the  aeration  of  the  well-balanced  aquar- 
ium. 


THE  AQUARIUM  TANK. 

Undoubtedly  the  best  kind  of  a  receptacle  for  the  beginner 
is  the  oblong,  straight-sided  aquarium  with  metal  frame,  glass 
sides  and  slate  or  soap-stone  bottom.  The  medium  sizes  holding 
from  eight  to  ten  gallons,  up  to  twenty  gallons,  will  be  the  best 
lor  the  beginner.    The  smaller  sizes  are  more  difficult  to  balance 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA 


19 


PORTABLE    METAL    FRAME    AQUARIUM. 

A  useful    tank    in    all    sizes    and    tlie    only    kind    that    is    satisfactory    for 
larger   sizes    above    eight    or    ten   gallons. 

and  the  larger  ones  are  more  expensive.  For  aquaria  holding 
ten  gallons  and  upward,  the  only  type  that  can  be  used  to  advan- 
tage is  that  with  metal  frame. 

When  well  set  up  such  a  tank  will  last  for  years  without 
leaking,  and  is  easily  reset,  or  can  often  be  readily  mended  by 
running  a  little  asphaltum,  red  lead  or  an  aquarium  cement  in 
the  joints. 

The  rectangular,  straight-sided,  all-glass  jars,  holding  up  to 
eight  or  ten  gallons,  are  excellent ;  better  in  some  respects  than 
those  with  metal  frames,  for  they  are  not  hkely  to  spring  a  leak. 
The  glass  jars,  however,  are  more  likely  to  crack  and  so  prove  an 
extra  expense,  but  in  the  hands  of  the  experienced  aquarist  they 
are  perhaps  the  most  satisfactory  kind  for  sizes  under  five  gal- 
lons. Care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  such  jars  rest  firmly  and 
evenly  upon  their  bases,  and  that  they  are  not  subject  to  sudden 
changes  of  temperature.  It  is  well  to  place  an  asbestos  mat,  or  a 
pad  composed  of  a  few  layers  of  blotting  paper,  under  the  jar  to 
act  as  a  shock  absorber  and  to  distribute  the  weight  more  evenly. 

The  cylindrical  jar  with  straight  vertical  sides  is  satisfac- 
tory to  maintain,  but  the  inmates  appear  somewhat  distorted 


20 


NEW   YORK   AQUARIUM    NATURE   SERIES 


MOSQUITO    LARVAE:    ALL-GLASS    AQUARIUM. 

Tliis  lectangular  type  of  jar  can  be  had  in  all  the 
smaller   sizes   and    is   the    best   form    of   the    all- 
grlass    jar.      For    balanced    aquaria,     the     height 
should    not   exceed   the   -u-idth. 


through  the  curved  sides.  For  smaller  aquaria  the  ordinary 
battery  jar  is  as  good  as  anything,  except  for  the  distortion,  and 
has  the  advantage  of  being  cheap.  Very  beautiful  and  well  bal- 
anced aquaria  can  often  be  made  with  the  two-quart  size,  but 
these  are  suitable  only  for  very  small  animals  and  few  of  them. 

To  test  the  limits  of  the  capacity  of  the  two-quart  size,  the 
writer  once  kept  in  such  a  jar,  with  plenty  of  weeds  and  in  good 
light,  a  carp  nearly  as  long  as  the  diameter  of  the  vessel.  The 
fish  continued  to  live  in  good  condition  for  several  weeks  until 
an  accident  brought  the  experiment  to  an  abrupt  end. 

On  no  account  should  the  ordinary  globe  be  used.  This  is 
the  unanimous  opinion  of  all  experienced  aquarists.    Globes  are 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA  21 

often  purchased  by  the  inexperienced  because  of  their  cheapness, 
but  they  give  the  specimens  a  very  badly  distorted  appearance, 
and,  what  is  much  worse,  the  constricted  top  affords  but  small 
surface  area  for  exchange  of  gases  with  the  air.  Furthermore 
the  constriction  of  the  top  makes  it  almost  impossible  to  clean 
the  jar  properly  without  emptying  it,  and  this  naturally  disturbs 
the  balance.  The  fact  that  a  goldfish  will  live  in  a  small  globe, 
with  or  without  a  small  floating  branch  of  a  water  plant,  is  no 
excuse  for  keeping  it  in  any  but  the  most  comfortable  surround- 
ings. Fishes  in  such  globes — and  how  often  we  see  them ! — are 
compelled  to  go  often  to  the  surface  and  suck  in  bubbles  of  air  to 
obtain  enough  oxygen  to  avoid  asphyxiation.  The  slight  addi- 
tional cost  in  securing  the  proper  sort  of  a  tank  will  be  repaid 
many  times  in  the  satisfaction  with  which  it  may  be  managed. 

To  prevent  the  fish  from  jumping  out  of  the  tank  a  cover  of 
wire  screen  may  be  provided.  As  a  rule  there  is  little  danger  of 
this  unless  the  tank  is  filled  close  to  the  top,  but  some  kinds  of 
active  fishes  are  much  given  to  leaping  out  of  the  water. 

TEMPERATURE. 

For  native  animals  in  general  the  degree  of  temperature  is 
of  comparatively  small  importance,  provided  that  the  water  is 
not  allowed  to  get  too  warm,  as  it  will  tend  to  do  in  summer  if 
the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  are  permitted  to  reach  it  for  any 
length  of  time.  Native  fishes,  as  well  as  goldfishes  and  carp,  will 
endure  the  colder  temperatures  so  long  as  the  water  is  not  al- 
lowed to  freeze,  though  the  nearer  the  freezing  point  it  ap- 
proaches, the  more  sluggish  become  their  movements  and  the 
less  food  they  will  consume.  The  most  satisfactory  temperature 
is  perhaps  between  the  degrees  of  50  and  70  Fahrenheit.  It 
should  be  prevented  from  rising  higher  than  80  degrees  or  from 
falling  below  40,  though  there  is  much  less  danger  from  the 
lower  temperatures  than  from  the  higher.  Some  exotic  fishes 
from  the  tropics  require  a  warm  temperature  and  die  when  the 
water  falls  below  60.  Young  turtles  and  alligators  become  tor- 
pid and  refuse  to  eat  if  the  temperature  goes  down  much  below 
70  and  should  always  be  kept  at  a  hot-house  temperature  to 
make  the  best  growth. 

It  is  very  important  for  all  animals  that  the  temperature 
should  not  vary  suddenly,  since  in  their  natural  environment 
they  are  not  subjected  to  such  rapid  changes  and  hence  are  not 
adapted  to  them.     Fishes,  especially  the  long-tailed  varieties  of 


22 


NEW    YORK   AQUARIUM    NATURE   SERIES 


COI^RAMI 

Til  is   t'Xntic   si)ecimen   lived    for   several   years 
at   the   Aquarium. 

trokltishes,  may  have  the  tissues  of  the  fins  injured  by  exposure 
to  sudden  changes  in  temperature,  rendering  them  liable  to  the 
disease  known  as  "tail-rot."  Aquaria  should,  therefore,  be  kept 
out  of  cold  draughts  in  the  winter  time  and  water  should  be 
added  only  when  it  is  at  the  same  temperature  as  that  of  the 
r.(|uarium. 

For  tropical  fishes  which  require  higher  w^ater  temperatures 
the  year  round,  75  to  80  degrees  or  more,  various  devices  have 
been  invented.  Several  of  these  are  quite  satisfactory,  even  with 
Fniall  tanks.  When  specially  constructed  tanks  or  other  appa- 
ratus are  required,  it  will  be  best  to  consult  a  dealer  in  aquarium 
supplies  in  regard  to  the  matter. 

It  is  possible  to  heat  a  tank  by  means  of  electric  light  bulbs 
placed  near  the  tank,  and  a  little  careful  experimentation  with 
the  aid  of  the  thermometer  wall  indicate  how^  close  the  bulb 
should  be  placed.  But  the  best  appliances  involve  means  of  cir- 
culating the  water  so  as  to  maintain  nearly  the  same  tempera- 
ture in  all  parts  of  the  aquarium. 

PLACING  THE  AQUARIUM. 

The  aquarium  jar  or  tank  should  be  placed  on  a  firm  base 
where  it  will  not  be  subjected  to  much  vibration  and  where  it 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA 


23 


YOUNG    LONG-EARED    SUNFISH    IN    A    BALANCED    AQUARIUM. 

Smaller  specimens  of  native  sunfishes  make  as  attractive  aquarium  pets 
as    could    be    desired    and    are    easily    kept.      Note    variety    g'iven 

by    two    kinds    of   plants. 

vnW  not  have  to  be  moved  frequently.  Fishes  are  sensitive  to 
vibrations  in  the  water  and  jarring  or  moving  the  aquarium 
frightens  and  disturbs  the  inhabitants.  It  should  not  be  placed 
too  near  a  radiator,  and  if  it  is  near  a  window  it  should  be  care- 
fully guarded  from  draughts  in  cold  weather.  North  windows 
are  the  most  suitable,  since  sufficient  light  is  afforded  for  the 
growth  of  the  plants,  and  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  which  tend 
to  heat  up  the  water  and  to  over-stimulate  the  plant  growth,  will 
be  avoided.  If  the  southern  exposure  is  the  only  one  available, 
the  tank  may  be  placed  farther  from  the  window  or  it  may  be 
shaded  from  the  strong  sunlight  by  a  small  screen  of  cheesecloth 
stretched  upon  a  light  frame. 

Too  much  light  is  not  good  for  the  plants,  yet  they  must 
have  enough  for  starch-making  or  they  will  not  thrive.  At  the 
New  York  Aquarium  small  aquaria  have  been  kept  for  years  in 
a  satisfactory  condition  of  balance,  though  situated  under  sky- 
lights where  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  never  strike  them. 


PLANTING  THE  AQUARIUM. 

This  is  an  important  proceeding,  as  upon  the  successful 
establishment  of  the  plant  growth  depends  the  aeration  of  the 
standing  aquarium  and  consequently  the  health  of  the  animals. 


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THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA  25 

Many  kinds  of  aquatic  plants,  both  wild  and  cultivated,  will  grow 
readily  in  the  narrow  limits  of  the  aquarium. 

Fine  gravel  or  coarse  sand,  or  a  mixture  of  these  should 
first  be  placed  in  the  bottom  of  the  tank  to  the  depth  of  one  or 
two  inches,  depending  upon  the  depth  of  the  aquarium.  For  the 
best  results  the  sand  should  not  be  evenly  distributed  over  the 
bottom,  but  should  slope  toward  the  center,  side  or  end  of  the 
small  tank,  or  have  two  or  three  depressions  if  the  tank  is  larger. 
These  not  only  add  diversity  to  the  appearance,  but  the  fecal 
matter  of  the  fishes,  surplus  food  and  other  wastes  will  collect 
in  the  depressions  and  can  be  more  readily  siphoned  off. 

The  plants  can  be  anchored  by  packing  their  roots  in  the 
sand  or  gravel,  and,  if  necessary,  large  pebbles  can  be  placed 
about  the  bases  of  the  plants  until  they  become  firmly  rooted,  or 
the  lower  end  of  the  stem  may  be  weighted  by  wrapping  with  a 
small  piece  of  soft  lead  just  above  the  roots.  Some  aquarists 
msist  that  a  layer  of  soil  should  first  be  placed  under  the  gravel, 
but  with  completely  aquatic  plants  this  is  quite  unnecessary, 
while  the  soil  is  often  a  source  of  danger  to  the  animal  life 
through  the  decomposition  of  its  organic  ingredients. 

If  the  aquarium  is  to  support  its  full  quota  of  animal  life, 
the  plants  must  be  thickly  placed.  In  fact,  there  can  hardly  be 
too  much  vegetation  so  long  as  the  fishes  have  sufficient  room  to 
swim  about.  The  plants  tend  to  mass  at  the  top  of  the  aquarium 
leaving  free  space  below  for  the  fishes. 

To  obtain  the  best  results,  the  aquarium  should  be  planted 
at  least  a  few  days  before  the  animals  are  introduced.  This  al- 
lows the  plants  a  better  opportunity  for  taking  hold  of  the  sand 
and  it  also  permits  them  to  thoroughly  aerate  the  water  in  prep- 
aration for  the  animal  life. 

In  order  to  prevent  the  possible  introduction  of  parasites 
into  the  aquarium  along  with  the  plants  it  is  well  to  sterilize  the 
latter  before  placing  them  in  the  tank.  This  can  be  done  by 
immersing  the  plants  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  in  a  solution  of 
creolin — two  teaspoonfuls  to  the  gallon  of  water.  The  plants 
should  be  well  rinsed  in  water  before  they  are  placed  in  the  aqua- 
rium. Phenol  sodique  solution — a  tablespoonful  to  a  quart  of 
water — is  also  highly  recommended.  The  plants  should  be  al- 
lowed to  remain  in  this  solution  for  several  hours  and  should,  of 
course,  be  thoroughly  rinsed  after  removal  from  the  antiseptic 
bath. 


26  NEW   YORK  AQUARIUM    NATURE   SERIES 

In  the  selection  of  plants  the  beginner,  especially  if  he  lives 
in  a  large  city,  will  probably  have  to  depend  largely  upon  the 
dealer.  As  there  are  many  kinds  of  plants  suitable  for  the  aqua- 
rium there  is  a  wide  range  of  choice,  according  to  the  tastes  of 
the  indiviiliial. 

The  best  species  for  aeration  are  those  that  will  live  entirely 
submerged  and  which  have  (1)  narrow,  ribbon-like,  or  (2) 
finely  divided  leaves. 

In  the  first  class  are  the  tapegrass  {Vallis7ie7^ia) ,  arrow- 
head {S(t(jittari(i)  and  pondweed  (Potamogeton)  ;  and  in  the 
second  class,  fanwort  (Cabomba) ,  milfoil  (Mifriophylhim) , 
hornwort   {Ceratophi/Unm)   and  waterweed   (Anacharis) . 

The  fanwort  is  the  most  difficult  of  the  plants  mentioned  to 
prow  properly  and  is  less  satisfactory  for  aeration  than  many 
others,  yet  it  seems  to  be  the  form  most  usually  sold  by  the 
dealers.  The  others  mentioned  give  little  trouble,  even  to  the 
begin nei*.  If  a  single  species  is  purchased  the  beginner  will 
probably  find  Sagittaria  or  Anacharis  the  most  satisfactory. 
Two  or  three  of  these  plants  placed  together  in  the  tank  give  a 
little  diversity  and  make  it  more  attractive  than  will  a  single 
species.  Nearly  all  of  these  plants  will  slip  readily  and  the  slips 
will  soon  form  their  own  roots  if  anchored  to  the  bottom  by  a 
pebble  or  a  strip  of  lead.  The  tapegrass  sends  out  runners,  from 
the  joints  of  which  young  shoots  arise. 

The  plants  must,  of  course,  be  provided  with  a  sufficient 
amount  of  light  or  they  will  not  grow,  as  they  are  able  to  manu- 
facture their  food  only  in  the  presence  of  sunlight.  For  reasons 
.^tated  elsewhere  the  north  window  affords  the  best  light  for  the 
afjuarium.  If  the  plants  grow  too  luxuriantly  they  can  readily 
be  trimmed.  Some  aciuarists  prefer  to  trim  off  all  the  parts  that 
come  to  the  surface,  thus  keeping  the  plants  entirely  submerged. 
There  is  no  doubt  that  such  a  method  affords  the  maximum  of 
aeration,  since  the  more  the  plants  are  submerged,  the  less  is  the 
opportunity  afforded  for  the  escape  of  oxygen  at  the  surface. 

However,  many  persons  prefer  the  appearance  of  some 
plants  floating  at  the  surface,  and  there  can  be  no  objection  to 
this  so  long  as  there  is  a  sufficient  amount  submerged.  Perhaps 
the  most  picturesque,  and  therefore  the  most  satisfactory,  results 
for  the  average  person  are  obtained  by  providing  at  least  two 
kinds  of  plants,  one  like  the  arrowhead  or  pondweed  with 
broad  leaves  which  are  allowed  to  float  at  the  surface,  and  the 
other  with  finely  divided  leaves    (milfoil,  fanwort,  etc.),  kept 


THE  CARE  OF   HOME  AQUARIA 


27 


■•%^-.0^- 


COMMON  BROOK   SUCKER. 
A    native    fish    tliat    thrives    well. 


submerged  by  trimming.  The  little  duckweed  (Lemna)  which 
floats  entirely  at  the  surface  with  its  tiny  roots  hanging  straight 
down  in  the  water  for  a  short  distance,  the  moss-fern  (Salvi- 
nia) ,  the  thread-like  bladderwort  ( Utricularia)  and  the  floating 
Riccia  are  all  well  adapted  to  the  conditions  of  the  small  aquari- 
um and  add  greatly  to  its  attractiveness. 

The  plants  available  for  aquarium  purposes  are  entirely  too 
numerous  to  mention  here.  There  are  many  native  species,  some 
of  which  can  be  secured  in  nearly  every  pond  and  stream.  They 
are  generally  annuals  and  do  not  live  indefinitely,  and  the  most 
•satisfactory  ones  are  those  handled  by  the  dealers,  since  these 
are  cultivated  especially  for  the  purpose.  These  for  the  most 
part  have  been  introduced  from  the  tropics,  where  they  flourish 
perennially. 

Following  is  a  list  of  those  most  commonly  used : 

SUBMERGED  PLANTS. 

Fanwort  (Cabomba  caroliniana). 
Pink  fanwort  (Cabomba  rosaefolia). 
Mermaid  weed  (Proserpinaca  palustris). 
Willow  moss   (Fontinalis  antipyretica) . 
Common  starwort   (Callitriche  verna). 
Hornwort    (Ceratophyllum  demersum). 
Canadian  waterweed  (Elodea  canadensis) . 


28  NEW   YORK   AQUARIUM   NATURE   SERIES 

Dense  Waterweed    (Elodea  densa). 

Narrow-leaved  Waterweed    (Elodea  angustifolia) . 

Tapegrass  (Valisneria  spiralis). 

Waterviolet  or  Waterfeather   (Hottonia  palustris). 

Mudplant    or    Kidney-leaved    Heteranthera    (Heteranthera 
reniformis) . 

Wavy-leaved  Pondweed  (Potamogeton  crispus). 
Dense  Pondweed  (Potamogeton  densus). 
Swimming  Arrowhead  (Sagittaria  natans). 
Narrow-leaved  False  Loosestrife  (Ludwigia  linearis). 
Water-aloe,  Water  shears  (Stratiotes  aloides). 
Swimming  Arrow  wort   (Sagittaria  natans). 
The  Creeping  Rush  (Juncus  repens) . 

Water  Milfoil  or  Thousand-leaf  (Myriophyllum  heterophyl- 
lum). 

FREE  SWIMMING  PLANTS. 

Common  Bladderwort   (Utricularia  vulgaris). 
Southern  Bladderwort    (Utricularia  americana). 
Frogbite  (Hydrocharis  morsus-ranae) . 
Small  Duckweed  (Lemna  minor). 
Three-leaved  Duckweed   (Lemna  trisulca). 
Floating  Salvinia  (Salvinia  natans). 
Moss-fern   (Salvinia  auriculata). 
Floating  Riccia   (Riccia  fluitans). 
W^ater  Hyacinth  (Eichornia  crassipes). 

STOCKING   THE  AQUARIUM. 

The  experienced  aquarist  will  naturally  know  what  he 
wishes  and  how  to  secure  it.  The  beginner  should  start  as  sim- 
ply as  possible  with  only  the  commoner  and  hardier  fishes  and 
wait  until  he  has  proved  successful  with  these  before  attempting 
to  handle  rare  or  expensive  stock.  Carps  and  the  ordinary  gold- 
fishes known  as  "commons"  are  undoubtedly  the  best  for  the  be- 
ginner who  is  within  easy  reach  of  a  dealer.  The  highly  bred, 
fancy  varieties  of  goldfishes  are  less  hardy  and  the  same  is  gen- 
erally true  of  exotic  fishes,  however  attractive  they  may  be. 

Almost  any  of  the  native  fishes  may  be  easily  kept  and  will 
prove  interesting  and  attractive.  Catfishes  are  perhaps  the  most 
hardy,  but  the  various  suckers  and  many  of  the  minnows,  as  well 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA 


29 


YOQNG  CATFISH. 

The   local   species   of   catfishes   are   hai^dy  and   interesting. 

excellent   for   the    beginner. 


They  are 


as  young  sunfishes,  basses,  etc.,  which  can  be  collected  with  the 
aid  of  a  small  dip  net,  can  be  kept  readily.  The  local  species 
should  be  studied  much  more  commonly  than  they  are  at  present. 
Why  so  many  people  are  satisfied  to  keep  ordinary  goldfishes 
when  there  is  at  hand  an  abundance  of  attractive  native  fishes  of 
more  lively  habits  and  graceful  form,  is  only  to  be  explained  by 
the  fact  that  the  former  give  so  little  trouble  and  can  be  bought 
of  a  dealer  instead  of  collected  at  a  brook.  Of  course  one  can 
easily  understand  the  attitude  of  the  fish  fancier  who  makes  a 
specialty  of  breeding  various  strains  of  goldfishes  or  of  keeping 
rare  exotic  forms  of  bizarre  appearance  or  unusual  habits. 

Overstocki7ig  is  the  most  serious  error  into  ivhich  the  begin- 
ner is  likely  to  fall.  In  his  enthusiasm  for  the  fishes  and  his  love 
for  their  attractive  colors  and  movements,  he  places  more  speci- 
mens in  his  tank  than  can  be  readily  provided  with  oxygen. 
Often,  when  they  are  not  all  affected  in  a  short  time,  the  result 
may  be  that  they  are  gradually  enervated  until  the  loss  of  some 
of  them  establishes  a  proper  balance  of  the  animal  and  vegetable 
life.  Until  the  management  of  the  aquarium  is  thoroughly  mas- 
tered, the  rule  should  be  to  keep  well  under  the  limit  of  animal 
life. 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA  31 

It  is  difficult  to  lay  down  any  hard  and  fast  rule  for  this, 
because  the  number  of  fishes  that  can  be  kept  depends  upon  their 
size  and  kind  as  well  as  upon  the  proportions  of  the  tank  and  the 
amount  of  plant  life  in  good  thrifty  condition.  It  may  be  stated 
that  the  beginner  will  do  well  to  supply  only  a  couple  of  fishes 
three  or  four  inches  long  to  an  aquarium  of  five  or  six  gallons  of 
water  when  the  plants  are  in  good  condition.  A  rule  often  given 
is— one  inch  of  fish  (not  counting  the  tail)  to  each  gallon  of 
water.  That  is  to  say,  a  six-gallon  aquarium  will  ordinarly  sup- 
port six  fishes  an  inch  in  length,  or  two  fishes  three  inches  long. 
When  he  is  well  acquainted  with  the  habits  and  appearance  of 
his  fishes,  the  aquarist  will  be  able  to  know  at  once  when  his 
tanks  are  overstocked  before  any  losses  take  place. 

Strange  fishes  should  not  be  introduced  into  an  aquarium 
with  others  until  they  have  proved  free  from  disease.  They 
should  be  kept  by  themselves  for  a  week  at  least,  and  for  the 
purpose  of  sterilization,  may  be  placed  in  a  bath  of  permanga- 
nate of  potash.  This  substance  in  stronger  solutions  is  highly 
poisonous  to  fishes.  The  bath  in  proper  concentration,  has  a 
light  claret  color  and  the  fishes  should  be  watched  closely  while 
in  it.  If  they  show  any  signs  of  turning  on  the  side,  they  should 
be  removed  at  once  to  pure  water.  Snails  and  other  animals  may 
be  treated  in  the  same  manner  for  the  purpose  of  disinfection. 

There  are,  of  course,  many  sorts  of  animals  besides  fishes 
that  are  adapted  to  aquarium  life.  The  tadpoles,  larvae  of  frogs 
and  toads,  are  easily  collected  in  any  pond,  or  some  of  them  may 
be  purchased  from  dealers.  In  addition  to  their  interesting 
habits  they  are  useful  as  scavengers,  but  unless  they  are  large  it 
will  not  do  to  introduce  them  into  the  aquarium  with  carnivor- 
ous fishes.  In  early  spring  the  eggs  may  be  collected  and  the 
young  reared.  The  eggs  of  the  frogs  are  laid  in  gelatinous 
masses,  those  of  the  toad  in  long  strings. 

Of  the  numerous  salamanders,  the  pale  axolotl  and  the  com- 
mon mud-puppy  (Nectiirus)  both  of  which  have  external  gills, 
are  easily  kept.  The  eggs  of  the  mud-puppy  can  often  be  ob- 
tained in  large  masses  in  ponds  in  early  spring,  and  the  larvae 
may  be  reared  as  easily  as  those  of  the  frog.  The  most  attractive 
of  the  native  salamanders  is  the  common  or  spotted  water  newt 
(Diemictylus  viridescens) .  These  beautiful  and  graceful  little 
animals,  though  without  gills,  live  well  in  the  aquarium,  since 
they  are  apparently  able  to  absorb  sufficient  oxygen  through  the 
skin.    They  swim  readily  with  the  limbs  folded  against  the  sides, 


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THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA 


33 


COMMON    SALT-WATER    SHRIMP. 

Tlie\'   live   well   in   the   small   aquarium,   but   not   in 
such    great    numbers. 

and  climb  with  ease  among  the  vegetation.    The  eggs  of  the  newt 
are  laid  singly  among  water  plants. 

Young  turtles  are  interesting,  but  the  most  of  them  are 
better  adapted  to  moist  terraria  than  to  the  ordinary  aquarium 
as  they  need  to  have  some  way  of  climbing  out  of  the  water.  The 
soft-shelled  or  fresh-water  leather  turtle  is  more  aquatic  than 
other  species  and  does  not  climb  out  often,  but  must  have  loose 
sand  in  which  it  occasionally  buries  itself. 

Young  alligators  are  frequently  brought  from  Florida,  but 
it  should  be  made  a  punishable  offense  to  do  so,  for  sooner  or 
later  they  die  unless  special  care  is  taken  to  provide  them  with 
heat  and  sunlight.  The  New  York  Aquarium  is  the  recipient 
annually  of  many  of  these  little  fellows,  usually  in  an  emaciated 
condition  because  they  have  not  fed  well,  and  many  of  them  do 
not  recover,  even  under  the  care  of  an  expert  aquarist.     They 


34  NEW  YORK  AQUARIUM   NATURE   SERIES 

should  be  considered  strictly  hothouse  pets  and  handled  accord- 
ingly. 

The  temperature  of  the  ordinary  living  room  in  winter  is 
too  low  for  young  alligations,  as  they  require  80  to  85  degrees  for 
their  best  development  and  should  not  be  allowed  to  drop  below 
75  degrees.  Below  this  temperature  they  become  sluggish  and 
cliilled  and  refuse  to  eat. 

The  pond  and  river  species  of  crayfishes  are  well  suited  to 
the  small  aquarium.  Those  from  the  mountain  streams  and  cold 
springs  are  harder  to  keep  on  account  of  the  difficulty  of  main- 
taining a  sufficiently  low  temperature  during  the  warm  months. 
They  should  not  be  kept  with  fish  smaller  than  themselves,  for 
they  sometimes  make  too  good  use  of  their  large  pincers.  They 
should  be  provided  with  some  sort  of  a  retreat  in  the  form  of 
rockwork  or  stones  under  which  they  can  hide  part  of  the  time 
on  bright  days,  as  they  are  more  or  less  nocturnal  in  habit.  Some 
species  wijl  climb  readily  among  the  water  weeds. 

There  are  numerous  aquatic  insects  which  can  be  kept  read- 
ily and  which  offer  a  very  attractive  field  for  study.  Of  those 
available  in  the  adult  stage  may  be  mentioned  the  hard-shelled 
water-beetles  {Dytiscus,  Hydrophilns)  and  the  whirligig  beetle. 
The  water-bugs,  such  as  the  oarsman  and  the  electric-light  bug 
{Belostoma)  are  among  the  commoner  and  larger  of  the  true 
bugs.  The  larvae  of  the  dragon-flies,  caddis-flies  and  the  dobson 
or  helgramite  are  even  more  interesting  and  may  be  kept  until 
they  emerge  in  the  adult  winged  condition.  These  forms  are 
chiefly  carnivorous  and  if  kept  together  the  smaller  may  disap- 
pear into  the  rapacious  stomachs  of  the  larger.  The  dragon-fly 
larvae  are  even  cannibalistic  and  unless  provided  with  enough 
food  the  larger  may  devour  the  smaller,  even  of  the  same  species. 

Any  of  the  above  forms  may  be  readily  collected  with  the 
aid  of  a  small  dip-net.  While  their  study  has  been  chiefly  con- 
fined to  the  entomologist,  they  will  amply  repay  the  labors  of  the 
aquarist. 

The  following  list  of  fishes  includes  some  of  the  exotic  spe- 
cies commonly  kept  by  fanciers.  Many  of  them  have  no  common 
names.  The  goldfishes,  carps,  tenches,  ides  and  orfs  are  also 
exotic  in  origin,  but  have  become  domesticated  in  many  places. 

Labyrinthine  Fishes  from  India:  Macropodus  viridi-aur' 
cfus  (Paradise  fish)  ;  Betta  rubra  (Red  Fighting-fish)  ;  Betta 
tnfasciata  (Common  Fighting-fish)  ;  Trichogaster  lalius  (Drawf 
Gourami)  ;  T.  fasciatus    (Striped  Gourami),  Osphromemis  tri- 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA 


35 


THE    SIREX. 

This  salamander    has    the   legs    reduced   to   mere   vestiges.      Ycung   speci- 
mens   are   well   suited   for   life    in   the   small   aquarium. 

diopter  US  (Spotted  Gourami)  ;  Ctenops  vittatus  (Purring  Gour- 
ami)  ;  Anabas  scandens  (Climbing  perch). 

Viviparous  Killi-fishes,  Mexico  to  South  America:  Gam- 
busia  holbrooki,  G.  affifiis,  Girardinus  giippiji,  Mollienesia  spe- 
cies, Poecilia  species,  Platypoecilia  species,  Xiphophorus  helleri. 

Oviparous  Killi-fishes  from  Central  and  South  America: 
Haplochilus  species,  Rivulus  species,  Fundidus  species. 

Barbels  from  India:     Barbus  species,  Danio  rerio    (Zebra 
fish). 

Chanchitos  from  South  America:  Heros  fasciatiis,  Geo- 
phagiis  gymnogensis,  Hemichromis  bimacidatus. 

Characin- fishes  from  South  America:  Tetragonopterus 
species. 

Loaches  from  Europe :     Cobitis  species. 


ANIMALS  THAT  WILL  LIVE  WELL  TOGETHER. 

In  general  it  may  be  said  that  all  herbivorous  fishes  can  be 
kept  together  safely  and  carnivorous  species  should  be  about  the 
same  size  when  kept  in  the  same  tank,  though  even  then  it  may 
become  necessary  to  separate  some  of  the  more  pugnacious 
specimens  which  are  inclined  to  ''bully"  the  others. 


36 


NEW   YORK  AQUARIUM    NATURE   SERIES 


^M 


SOFT-SHELLED    TURTLIO. 
Small   specimens   are   well   adapted   to   the  aquarium. 

Goldfishes,  carps,  roach,  golden  ide  and  suckers  live  amic- 
ably together,  and  tadpoles  and  snails  may  be  kept  safely  with 
them. 

The  fresh-water  minnows,  such  as  chubs,  shiners,  dace,  etc., 
catfishes,  killiefishes,  the  various  sunfishes  and  snails  and  large 
tadpoles  will  live  together,  though  the  fishes  should  be  nearly  the 
s^ime  size.  Sticklebacks,  paradise-fish  and  chanchitos  are  better 
kept  bj  themselves,  and  the  black  basses  and  pickerels,  unless 
smaller  than  the  other  forms,  should  also  be  kept  separate.  With 
these  fishes  it  is  better  to  keep  only  snails,  as  even  large  tadpoles 
may  lose  their  tails  by  the  attacks  of  the  fishes. 

The  three  species  of  local  salt-water  killiefishes  live  well 
together  and  tautog,  scup,  cunner,  toadfish,  sculpin,  etc.,  if  about 
the  same  size  can  be  placed  in  the  same  tank.  Sea  anemones, 
crabs  and  molluscs  too  large  to  be  swallowed  may  be  kept  with 
them. 


FEEDING. 

It  is  a  common  but  very  mistaken  notion  that  an  animal 
should  have  food  at  hand  at  all  times  to  keep  it  in  good  condition. 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA 


37 


SOFT-SHELLED    TURTLE. 
Upper    side. 


It  is  well  known  that  various  forms  of  domestic  animals,  as  well 
as  the  wild  species  confined  in  zoological  gardens,  make  the  best 
growth  and  keep  in  the  most  satisfactory  condition  when  sup- 
plied only  with  what  food  they  will  clean  up  at  one  feeding.  This 
applies  with  equal  force  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  aquarium,  but 
besides  the7-e  is  a  real  and  grave  clanger  of  coiitanfiinating  the 
ivater  hij  supplying  more  food  thayi  ivill  be  readily  consumed. 

It  is  a  well  known  fact  that  some  aquarium  animals  will  live 
for  a  long  time  without  feeding,  especially  when  kept  at  lower 
temperatures,  but  to  maintain  them  in  this  condition  results 
eventually  in  death  by  starvation  and  is  the  worst  form  of  cruelty 
to  which  they  can  be  subjected.  The  effects  of  starvation  may 
be  readily  observed  on  such  an  animal  as  the  sea-anemone, 
v/hich,  if  kept  without  food,  may  live  for  months,  but  will  gradu- 
ally shrink  in  size  until  only  a  small  fraction  of  its  original  bulk 
remains.  Higher  animals,  such  as  salamanders  and  fishes,  if 
kept  at  a  low  temperature  require  but  little  or  no  food,  since 
many  cold-blooded  animals  naturally  spend  the  colder  portion  of 
the  year  in  hibernation,  but  at  the  temperature  of  the  living 


38  NEW  YORK  AQUARIUM   NATURE  SERIES 

room  all  such  forms  require  food  more  or  less  regularly  since 
they  remain  active  and  so  must  keep  up  the  necessary  supply  of 
energy.  If  they  are  deprived  of  food  they  become  weak  and 
emaciated,  lose  their  vitality  and  become  a  ready  prey  to  disease. 
On  the  other  hand,  it  may  not  hurt  them  or  cause  any  serious 
discomfort  to  go  without  food  for  a  few  days  occasionally.  It  is 
certain,  also,  that  much  of  the  trouble  the  tyro  finds  in  balancing 
the  aquarium  is  due  to  overfeeding,  especially  w^hen  unconsumed 
food  is  allowed  to  remain  and  pollute  the  water  by  decaying. 

The  amount  of  food  a  fish  requires  depends  on  the  tempera- 
ture. When  this  is  above  60  degrees  they  may  be  fed  once  a  day, 
but  if  the  temperature  is  lower  than  60  degrees,  once  in  two  or 
three  days  is  sufficient.  Ayiy  food  not  consumed  within  a  feiv 
minutes  should  be  removed  at  once. 

In  the  selection  of  food  one  must  naturally  be  governed  by 
the  needs  of  his  animals — some  species  are  partly  or  entirely 
herbivorous  while  others  are  carnivorous.  Practically  all  of  our 
native  fishes  are  carnivorous  and  thrive  best  upon  a  meat  diet  of 
some  sort,  while  the  goldfishes  and  carp  are  largely  vegetarian. 
Prepared  fish  foods  of  varying  composition  may  be  obtained 
from  the  dealer  in  aquarium  supplies,  and  he  may  be  consulted 
as  to  that  best  adapted  to  a  particular  species  of  fish.  The 
granular  foods  are  in  general  better  than  the  ordinary  wafers 
which  tend  to  go  to  pieces  too  readily  and  cloud  and  contaminate 
the  water.  In  the  case  of  carnivorous  fishes,  the  prepared  dry 
food  may  be  supplemented  occasionally  by  the  addition  of  meal- 
worms, earthworms  or  fresh  beef  cut  into  small  pieces  according 
to  the  size  of  the  fish.  Special  care  should  be  taken,  however, 
that  such  animal  food  is  removed  if  not  eaten,  as  it  decays  much 
more  readily  than  vegetable  matter  and  causes  greater  danger  of 
pollution. 

To  prevent  the  dry  prepared  food  from  becoming  scattered 
over  the  surface  of  the  aquarium  it  is  advisable  to  make  use  of  a 
floating  glass  ring  which  can  be  secured  from  a  dealer.  This  not 
only  gives  the  surface  of  the  aquarium  a  neater  appearance  after 
feeding,  but  prevents  the  escape  of  smaller  particles  to  contami- 
nate the  water.  Care  in  the  matter  of  feeding  is  of  the  utmost 
importance  in  preserving  the  balance  of  the  aquarium  and  keep- 
ing the  animals  in  good  condition.  It  must  be  remembered  that 
the  usual  fault  is  that  of  overfeeding  and  the  conditions  should 
be  studied  carefully. 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA  39 


^ 


YOUNG  GEOGRAPHIC  TURTLES. 

Young-  turtles  are  very  attractive  aquarium  pets,   but  sliould  be  provided 

witli  a  float  so  that  they  may  climb  out  of  the  water. 

Some  turtles  will  take  food  only  under  water,  so  it  is  neces- 
sary to  provide  them  with  a  sufficient  depth  of  water  to  cover 
them  at  least  during  feeding  time.  This  of  course  does  not  apply 
to  the  tortoise  or  land  turtle.  The  majority  of  the  water  turtles 
are  carnivorous  and  will  take  a  variety  of  animal  foods,  fish, 
crayfish,  frogs  and  earthworms,  living  or  dead,  and  fresh  beef  or 
hard-boiled  eggs.  As  the  diflferent  species  vary  somewhat  in 
their  diet  this  should  be  studied.  Unless  they  are  kept  warm 
they  will  take  no  food. 

Young  alligators  usually  take  readily  to  almost  any  sort  of 
meat  diet,  living  or  dead,  and  may  be  given  the  same  foods  as  the 
carnivorous  turtles.  They  will  not  take  food  unless  kept  very 
warm. 

Tadpoles  will  usually  find  sufficient  food  in  the  debris  left 
after  the  fishes  have  taken  what  they  wish,  and  in  the  minute 
plant  life  of  the  aquarium,  which  they  assist  in  keeping  under 
control.  Sometimes,  however,  more  tadpoles  are  introduced  into 
the  aquarium  than  can  obtain  food  in  this  manner,  especially  if 
the  aquarium  is  not  sufficiently  lighted  to  encourage  the  growth 
of  the  minute  plants,  and  the  tadpoles  grow  thin  from  lack  of 
food.  There  are  several  ways  of  meeting  this  problem:  (1) 
the  tank  may  be  placed  in  better  light  to  encourage  plant  growth  ; 
(2)  a  larger  supply  of  vegetable  food  may  be  introduced  so  that 


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THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA  41 

the  tadpoles  may  have  sufficient  after  the  more  active  fishes  have 
taken  their  share.  In  this  case  any  surplus  not  consumed  should 
be  removed  with  the  pipette  after  a  few  hours;  (3)  the  tadpoles 
may  be  removed  to  another  receptacle  occasionally  and  fed  sep- 
arately. However,  a  careful  study  of  the  conditions  of  the  aqua- 
rium should  make  this  latter  method  unnecessary. 

Although  tadpoles  are  vegetarian  in  their  diet,  the  young 
frogs  and  toads  after  their  metamorphosis  are  strictly  carnivor- 
ous and  are  adapted  to  a  flesh  diet  only.  They  may  be  fed  on 
insects,  earthworms,  mealworms,  grubs,  or  pieces  of  fresh  meat 
cut  to  a  suitable  size.  Just  at  the  time  of  change  when  the  horny 
^aws  of  the  tadpoles  are  being  shed  to  allow  the  development  of 
the  teeth,  they  will  take  no  food.  This  period  of  change  extends 
from  a  few  days  to  several  weeks,  according  to  the  species  and 
the  temperature  of  the  water.  These  remarks  apply  equally  well 
to  newts  and  salamanders. 

For  smaller  animals,  and  especially  for  attached  forms  such 
as  the  sea-anemone  and  coral,  the  use  of  the  feeding-stick  is 
advisable.  This  is  simply  a  sharp-pointed  stick  of  sufficient 
length  to  reach  the  bottom  of  the  aquarium.  The  point  of  the 
stick  is  dipped  in  ground  meat  or  finely  minced  clam  made  into 
a  thick  paste  and  carefully  introduced  into  the  water  until  the 
animal  to  be  fed  is  reached.  With  a  little  care  this  can  be  done 
so  as  to  avoid  the  loss  of  much  food. 

Crayfishes  and  crabs  are  naturally  scavengers  and  will  eat 
almost  anything.  They  prefer  a  meat  diet,  however,  and  if 
deprived  of  this  they  are  very  likely  to  turn  cannibal  and  eat 
each  other. 

CLEANING  THE  AQUARIUM. 

It  must  be  clearly  borne  in  mind  that  cleanliness  is  abso- 
lutely necessary  to  the  welfare  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  aquari- 
um. In  an  aquarium  which  is  properly  set  up  contamination  can 
arise  only  by  bacterial  decay  of  organic  substances  allowed  to 
remain  in  the  water.  There  are  three  general  sources  of  such 
organic  matter ;  first,  fecal  matter  from  the  animals,  relatively 
unimportant  because  the  deposits  are  small  in  amount  and  regu- 
lar in  occurrence ;  second,  decaying  vegetable  matter  from  dead 
portions  of  the  plants,  also  relatively  unimportant  since  in  the 
well  balanced  aquarium  there  is  little  tendency  for  the  death  of 
the  plant  tissues,  and  third,  decay  of  excess  food  matter,  the 
usual  source  of  pollution. 


42 


NEW   YORK  AQUARIUM    NATURE   SERIES 


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IMPLEMENTS  OF  USE  TO  THE  AQUARIST. 

1.  Dipnet. 

2.  Wooden  forceps. 

3.  Feeding-  stick. 

4.  Cleaning   swab. 

fi.   Glass    tube   for   removing:    refuse. 

The  first  indication  of  serious  contamination  is  a  slight 
clouding  of  the  water  caused  by  the  presence  of  countless  mil- 
lions of  bacteria.  This  may  go  on  until  the  water  is  of  a  milky 
color  and  the  balance  of  the  aquarium  is  completely  upset  by  the 
accumulation  of  sulphur  and  ammonia  compounds  set  free  in  the 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA  43 

water  by  bacterial  decomposition.  The  question,  how  can  the 
accumulation  of  dead  matter  be  prevented,  is  therefore  one  of 
the  utmost  importance.  The  usual  means  is  to  introduce  some 
animal  that  will  act  as  a  scavenger  to  clean  up  refuse  matter. 
The  forms  generally  made  use  of  are  tadpoles  and  fresh-water 
snails.  A  convenient  rule  is  to  supply  one  snail  or  large  tadpole 
such  as  the  dealers  ordinarily  handle,  to  every  two  gallons  of 
water,  that  is  to  say  three  snails  or  tadpoles  are  sufficient  for  a 
six-gallon  aquarium.  Either  of  these,  under  ordinary  circum- 
stances, will  clean  up  waste  particles  of  food  and  decayed  vege- 
tation and  work  over  the  fecal  matter  of  the  fishes,  and  will  also 
tend  to  prevent  an  excessive  development  of  the  microscopic 
plants  which  form  a  green  scum  on  the  glass.  The  eggs  of  the 
freshwater  snails  are  eaten  greedily  by  fishes  and  thus  serve  to 
add  to  the  natural  food  supply  of  the  aquarium. 

If  larger  portions  of  plants  begin  to  deteriorate,  it  will  be 
found  best  to  cut  them  off  and  remove  them,  since  if  they  are  not 
in  good  condition  they  will  not  serve  for  aeration,  and  will  be- 
come a  source  of  danger. 

If  care  is  taken  in  feeding — and  a  little  study  and  experi- 
ence in  this  matter  is  the  only  safe  guide — no  appreciable 
amount  of  food  need  be  left  to  decay.  If,  for  any  reason,  the 
food  is  not  all  consumed,  or  if  there  is  any  accumulation  of  fecal 
or  other  matter,  it  may  be  readily  removed  by  means  of  a  long 
pipette,  or  a  rubber  tube  used  as  a  siphon.  For  the  small  aquari- 
um a  pipette  with  an  inside  diameter  of  one-quarter  to  three- 
eighths  of  an  inch,  and  fitted  with  a  large  rubber  bulb  is  most 
convenient.  In  using  the  tube  without  the  bulb,  place  the  thumb 
over  the  upper  end  of  the  tube  while  introducing  it,  then  with- 
draw the  thumb  when  the  tube  is  immediately  over  the  sub- 
stance to  be  removed.  The  substance  will  rush  up  the  tube,  after 
which  the  thumb  is  replaced  while  the  tube  is  withdrawn.  A 
special  form  of  glass  tube,  with  an  expanded  end,  recently  placed 
on  the  market,  holds  a  larger  quantity  of  refuse  and  must  be 
inverted  in  order  to  empty  it.  This  has  some  distinct  advan- 
tages over  the  ordinary  straight  tube. 

For  larger  aquaria  the  pipette  is  rather  tedious  and  the 
siphon  is  recommended.  In  either  case  the  waste  should  be 
strained  through  a  cloth  net  and  the  water  should  be  returned  to 
the  tank  rather  than  add  fresh  water  to  replace  it.  As  has  been 
stated  elsewhere,  the  less  changing  of  the  water  the  better,  for 
fear  of  introducing  some  new  factor  to  interfere  with  the  adjust- 


44 


NEW   YORK  AQUARIUM    NATURE   SERIES 


SKA-LETTUCE     (Ulva). 

It  is  the  best  aerator  for  the  salt-water  aquarium. 
The  red-seaweeds  add  color  and  variety  and 
sliould  be  placed  at  the  bottom  of  the  tank. 


ment  already  established.  It  will  occasionally  be  necessary  to 
add  water  to  replace  that  which  escapes  by  evaporation.  This 
should  be  done  a  little  at  a  time  and  care  should  be  taken  to  have 
the  temperature  the  same  as  that  of  the  water  in  the  tank. 

For  the  purpose  of  removing  any  deposits  on  the  glass  of 
the  aquarium,  a  swab  can  be  made  out  of  a  stick  with  a  bit  of 
cheesecloth  wrapped  about  the  end.  The  cloth  may  be  removed 
each  time  it  is  used,  which  should  not  be  more  often  than  is  nec- 
essary to  keep  the  glass  reasonably  clean,  or  if  it  is  used  again  it 
should  be  carefully  cleaned  and  sterilized  each  time  in  hot  water. 
The  swab  will  serve  not  only  to  remove  ordinary  dirt,  but  also 
the  green  scum  of  the  minute  plant  life  which  in  strong  light  will 
soon  cover  the  glass.  These  minute  plants  do  no  harm — in  fact 
they  are  as  beneficial  in  yielding  oxygen  as  are  the  larger  ones — 
and  they  are  a  natural  part  of  the  balanced  life  of  the  aquarium. 
Plowever  one  keeps  an  aquarium  to  enjoy  the  view  of  its  minia- 
ture water  world,  and  if  the  green  scum  interferes  with  the 
view  it  may  be  removed  without  great  detriment  to  the  adjust- 
ment. The  scum  grows  thickest  on  the  side  nearest  the  light  and 
it  may  be  allowed  to  develop  on  that  side  as  it  will  serve  to 
screen  the  strong  light  somewhat  from  the  animals. 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA 


45 


BALANCED   SALT-WATER  AQUARIUM. 

Sliowins-   ulva   and   i-ecl   seaAveed. 

When  aquaria  are  newly  arranged,  the  water  may  often 
appear  clouded  after  a  few  days.  If  the  fishes  show  signs  of  dis- 
comfort, it  is  due  to  the  presence  of  bacteria  causing  the  decom- 
position of  impurities  introduced  with  the  sand  or  from  decaymg 
plants.  If  the  fishes  appear  in  good  condition  the  clouding  may 
be  due  to  the  presence  of  great  numbers  of  microscopic  animals 
(infusoria)  or  plants  (diatoms).  This  condition  may  even  be 
noticed  occasionally  in  well-balanced  aquaria,  especially  in  the 
spring  when  the  water  begins  to  warm  up  and  particularly  if  the 
aquarium  is  in  strong  light.  It  is  best  in  any  case  to  draw  off  a 
portion  of  the  water  daily  and  add  a  fresh  supply  until  the 
cloudy  condition  is  past.  If  it  is  due  merely  to  the  presence  of 
infusoria  or  other  minute  life,  the  position  of  the  aquarmm 
should  be  changed  or  a  screen  should  be  arranged  to  cut  off  some 
of  the  light.  If  the  fishes  show  much  discomfort  they  should  be 
removed  until  the  conditions  are  made  right.  A  careful  search 
should  be  made  for  the  source  of  decomposition.  If  no  refuse 
food  nor  decaying  vegetation  is  found,  the  sand  or  gravel  should 
be  removed  from  the  bottom  and  thoroughly  washed  and  the 
tank  sterilized.  The  fishes,  in  the  meantime,  may  be  kept  in  any 
clean  receptacle,  and  the  water  changed  as  often  as  is  necessary. 
After  resetting  the  aquarium  should  be  allowed  to  stand  for  a 
few  days,  if  possible,  before  putting  the  fishes  in  it. 


46  NEW   YORK  AQUARIUM   NATURE   SERIES 

For  removing  inanimate  objects  from  the  aquarium  or  for 
readjusting  them,  a  strong  pair  of  wooden  forceps  is  advisable. 
The  hands  should  not  be  put  into  the  water  and  on  no  account 
should  the  fishes  be  taken  into  the  hands.  If  it  becomes  neces- 
sarv  to  remove  the  fishes,  a  small  net  of  cheesecloth  should  be 
employed  and  great  care  should  be  taken  not  to  injure  them  by 
loosening  their  scales,  as  any  such  abrasion  offers  a  foot-hold  to 
the  deadly  fish  fungus   {Saprolegma) . 


MARINE  AQUARIA. 

As  most  of  what  has  been  said  of  the  fresh  water  aquarium 
will  apply  with  equal  force  to  the  salt  water  aquarium,  a  detailed 
account  will  not  be  necessary.  The  factors  governing  life  are  in 
general  the  same  in  both.  The  best  plants  for  aerating  are  the 
species  of  green  algae  known  as  sea-lettuce  {Viva).  The  most 
convenient  of  these  to  use  is  the  common  broad-leaved  form.  The 
best  means  of  arranging  this  is  to  float  each  portion  at  the  sur- 
face by  a  small  piece  of  cork  placed  beneath  it.  The  cork  should 
be  just  large  enough  to  float  the  plant,  which  should  be  aflowed 
to  hang  down  in  the  water  as  far  as  possible.  The  species  of 
marine  plants  are  numerous,  and  the  various  red,  green  and 
brown  forms  with  strap-like  or  with  finely  divided  fronds  may 
be  placed  at  the  bottom  to  give  variety  and  color,  as  well  as  to  aid 
in  aerating  the  water.  Very  often  pebbles  with  these  plants  at- 
tached may  be  secured  in  shallow  water. 

Unfortunately  the  salt  water  aquarium  is  a  practical  impos- 
sibility for  most  persons  who  are  unable  to  make  occasional 
visits  to  the  sea-shore.  Artificial  sea  water  can  be  prepared 
easily  at  a  trifling  expense,  if  the  formula  of  Gosse  is  followed : 
chloride  of  sodium  (common  table  salt)  eighty-one  parts,  chlor- 
ide of  potassium  two  parts,  chloride  of  magnesia,  ten  parts,  sul- 
phate of  magnesia,  (epsom  salts)  seven  parts,  total  100  parts. 
A  pound  of  this  mixture  is  sufficient  to  make  about  three  gallons 
of  artificial  sea  water.  It  should  be  filtered  before  placing  in  the 
aquarium. 

To  be  sure,  natural  sea  water  contains  many  other  salts,  but 
they  have  been  found  unnecessary  for  the  plant  and  animal  life 
of  the  aquarium  and  may  be  omitted.  The  sea  water  part  of  the 
problem  is  thus  readily  solved,  but  very  little  marine  material  is 
ever  handled  by  dealers  in  this  country  and  the  diflficulty  of  ob- 
taining the  necessary  animals  and  plants  for  the  purpose  of 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA 


47 


J.% 


YOUNG  TAUTOG  OR  BLACKFISH. 
A   very    hardy   and    interesting-   fish    for    the    marine   aquarium. 


stocking  renders  the  salt-water  aquarium  impracticable  for  the 
person  of  average  means  who  lives  at  a  distance  from  the  sea. 

To  one  who  is  within  reach  of  the  shore,  however,  the  ma- 
rine aquarium  offers  a  never-ending  and  ever-varied  field  for 
Ftudy  and  investigation.  Animals  and  plants  may  be  obtained 
the  year  round,  and  many  of  them  live  well  within  the  restricted 
limits  of  the  aquarium.  The  many  species  of  hydroids  and  sea- 
anemones,  marine  worms,  small  starfishes,  bryozoans,  mollusks 
of  many  kinds,  crabs,  shrimps  and  other  crustaceans  and  sea 
squirts  or  ascidians,  as  well  as  fishes,  are  to  be  obtained.  These 
give  a  variety  to  the  miniature  scene  which  cannot  be  paralleled 
in  the  fresh  water  aquarium. 

Some  of  the  small  salt-water  aquaria  at  the  New  York 
Aquarium  have  been  maintained  in  a  balanced  condition  for  sev- 
eral years one  for  as  long  as  twelve  years.     Of  course,  both 

animals  and  plants  have  been  added  to  the  stock  occasionally, 
but  the  balance  has  not  been  interfered  with  during  that  time. 
Fresh  water  in  small  quantities  must  be  added  to  the  marine 
aquarium  occasionally  to  replace  that  which  evaporates.  The 
addition  of  sea  water  would,  in  the  course  of  time,  cause  the 
salinity  to  become  too  great,  since  the  salts  do  not  evaporate. 


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THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA  49 

Special  care  should  be  taken,  whenever  any  new  animals  are 
added,  to  observe  that  they  do  not  die  and  upset  the  adjustment 
of  the  aquarium  by  their  decomposition.  Portions  of  plants 
w^hich  are  deteriorating  may  be  removed  and  fresh  ones  added. 
In  fact  the  whole  method  of  operating  is  the  same  as  in  the  fresh- 
water aquarium,  except  that  greater  care  is  required  on  ac- 
count of  the  greater  variety  of  the  animal  life  and  the  greater 
danger  of  introducing  something  which  will  interfere  with  the 
adjustment. 

Practically  all  of  the  marine  animals  are  carnivorous.  They 
may  be  fed  upon  pieces  of  clam,  oyster  or  fish,  cut  to  proper  size 
or  finely  grated  for  the  smaller  animals. 

Some  sea-snails  make  good  scavengers,  but  some  of  them  are 
vegetarians  and  may  attack  the  plant  life  too  freely,  while  others 
are  entirely  carnivorous  and  will  have  nothing  to  do  with  decay- 
ing matter.  However,  these  are  just  the  points  which  the  aquar- 
ist  will  be  interested  in  determining  for  himself,  and,  with  the 
proper  attention,  will  offer  no  great  difficulties.  As  in  the  fresh- 
water aquarium,  it  is  very  important  not  to  overfeed  and  to 
remove  by  means  of  the  siphon  any  excess  food  material  which 
might,  by  decaying,  interfere  with  the  proper  balance  of  life. 

THE  TERRARIUM. 

Many  small  animals  suitable  for  the  home  collection  will  not 
live  in  water  and  some  others  which  may  be  kept  in  the  aquari- 
um really  prefer  moist  situations  and  will  do  much  better  in  such 
conditions  than  if  compelled  to  live  in  water.  For  such  animals 
the  terrarium  is  the  proper  receptacle.  Since  the  animals  may 
vary  from  the  desert  lizards,  such  as  the  horned-toad,  to  the 
moisture-loving  land-salamanders,  or  the  frogs,  it  is  evident  that 
the  conditions  in  the  terrarium  must  vary  accordingly. 

The  glass-sided  aquarium  tank  makes  a  good  receptacle  for 
the  terrarium.  For  desert  conditions  an  old  leaky  one  will  serve 
as  well  as  any,  and  a  bottom  of  dry  gravel  is  all  that  is  necessary. 
The  addition  of  a  few  cacti  or  other  desert  plants  gives  variety. 
These  may  be  planted  in  shallow  dishes,  sunk  to  the  level  of  the 
bottom.  One  or  two  large  pebbles  may  be  so  placed  that  the 
animals  can  partially  conceal  themselves  beneath  them. 

For  the  salamanders  and  frogs,  as  well  as  for  land  turtles 
and  most  insects,  more  moisture  is  necessary.  A  bottom  of 
gravel  covered  with  rich  earth  should  be  provided.    This  should 


50 


NEW   YORK  AQUARIUM    NATURE   SERIES 


TEIir.ARIUM    IN  A   liOUND  AQUAIUUM  JAR. 

Suitable  for  small   salamanders,   frogs  and 
some   turtles,   land  snails,   etc. 


be  kept  moist  but  not  sloppy,  with  frequent  watering.  Mosses, 
liverwort  and  semi-aquatic  plants,  such  as  may  be  obtained  in 
any  wet  woodland,  will  grow  well  and  make  an  attractive  envir- 
onment for  the  animal  life.  It  is  usually  advisable  to  sink  a 
shallow  dish  to  the  level  of  the  earth  in  one  corner  of  the  terrari- 
um,  as  some  animals,  such  as  turtles,  frogs  and  salamanders, 
may  find  it  necessary  to  enter  the  water  occasionally.  Such  a 
terrarium  should  be  in  a  good  light  and  should  be  placed  accord- 
ing to  the  suggestions  already  given  for  the  aquarium.  It  should 
be  guarded  in  a  similar  way  from  draughts.  It  is  often  advis- 
able to  cover  the  moist  terrarium  w4th  a  plate  of  glass  which  will 
prevent  evaporation  of  the  water  and  will  keep  the  enclosed  at- 
mosphere at  the  right  point  of  saturation.  In  such  case  the 
moisture  will  often  condense  upon  the  cover  and  sides  of  the 
receptacle  and  run  back  to  the  bottom.  Oxygen  for  the  respira- 
tion of  the  inhabitants  is  provided,  as  in  the  aquarium,  by  the 
plant  life,  and  in  turn  the  animals  provide  carbon  dioxide  for  the 
plant  life.  The  removal  of  the  cover  for  occasional  feeding  or 
cleaning  will  sufficiently  renew  the  atmosphere,  if  necessary,  but 
if  properly  balanced  no  such  renewal  is  required.     If  mold  tends 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA 


51 


•  V\.'T>^'' 


^^4 


MUDFISH    OR    BOWFIN. 
XM.   .3   one   o,  U,e   ^f-:^,SiJ^^-Z^^i^<^^'   ^*-"   ''"""'''" 

to  form  too  freely,  it  is  an  indication  that  the  soil  contains  too 
r^uch™rganic  matter,  or  that  some  of  the  plants  are  decaymg. 
The  cover  may  be  removed  and  the  terrarium  allowed  to  dry  out 
partially  to  prevent  the  mold  from  forming  too  freely. 

The  well  planted  terrarium  with  a  good  variety  of  Plan*  and 
animal  life  is  exceedingly  attractive.  Larger  ones  may  be  bmlt 
Hke  a  show-case  with  glass  top  and  sides  held  m  Pl;-by  wooden 
or  metal  frame.  The  writer  has  recently  seen  such  a  terrarium 
maTe  with  a  cement  bottom  which  was  fashioned  to  contain  a 
rn"e  pool  a  few  inches  in  depth  for  ^old  fishes  fro^s  and 
salamanders.  The  arrangement  may  be  varied  >ndefinitely  and 
very  elaborate  designs  may  be  worked  out  m  the  planting,  but  in 
the  opinion  of  the  writer  the  most  interesting  are  those  which 
simulate  as  nearly  as  possible  the  mossy  nook  or  other  bit  of  wild 
nature. 

DISEASES  AND  PARASITES. 

Diseases:  Many  diseases  of  fishes  are  difficult  to  diagnose 
correctly.  When  fishes  which  have  been  active  and  bright  colored 
become  languid  in  their  movements,  or  lose  their  colors,  if  they 
aSume  abnormal  positions,  such  as  swimming  head  downward 
jf  they  rub  themselves  frequently  agamst  the  gravel  or  plant 
stems,  if  they  keep  always  at  the  surface,  if  swellings  or  blotcies 
appear,  if  the  scales  stand  out  from  the  skin,  if  they  refuse  to 
take  food,  or,  if  they  behave  otherwise  in  an  unusual  manner,  it 


52  NEW  YORK  AQUARIUM    NATURE   SERIES 

may  be  taken  for  granted  that  something  is  wrong,  and  a  careful 
study  should  be  made  to  ascertain  the  exact  nature  of  the  diffi- 
culty. 

The  most  frequent  cause  of  trouble  for  the  beginner  is  lack 
of  oxygen.  The  symptoms  are  rapid  or  labored  breathing  or  the 
fishes  remain  at  the  surface  and  often  take  air-bubbles  into  their 
mouths.  On  adding  fresh  water  they  should  become  normal  in  a 
little  while.  Before  changing  the  water  in  a  balanced  aquarium 
it  may  be  better  to  try  aerating  by  dipping  it  up  and  pouring  it 
back  in  a  slender  stream  from  the  height  of  a  foot  or  so.  By  this 
means  small  air  bubbles  will  be  carried  under,  and  within  a  few 
minutes  the  oxygen  in  the  water  will  be  renewed.  It  must  be 
remembered  that  insufficient  oxygen  means  partial  suffocation 
and  therefore  continual  distress  to  the  fishes  until  a  satisfactory 
condition  of  aeration  is  established. 

On  dark  days,  when  the  plants  are  not  giving  off  much  oxy- 
gen, or  if  the  temperature  is  too  high,  so  that  the  water  does  not 
so  readily  retain  the  oxygen,  the  fishes  may  remain  at  the  sur- 
face. If  they  insist  on  doing  this  in  bright  weather  with  the 
temperature  of  the  water  not  above  65  or  70  degrees  there  is 
something  wrong  with  the  balance  which  should  be  remedied  at 
once  before  the  fishes  are  weakened  and  rendered  subject  to 
disease.  It  may  result  from  decomposition  of  unconsumed  food 
or  of  a  dead  snail,  and  cleaning  should  be  resorted  to  at  once.  If 
the  condition  comes  on  gradually,  it  is  probably  caused  by  lack  of 
plant  growth.  At  any  rate,  the  balance  is  disturbed  and  must  be 
restored  before  graver  difficulties  follow. 

Of  organic  diseases  in  fishes  we  know  very  little,  except  that 
such  do  exist.  The  most  common  troubles  affecting  aquarium 
fishes  are  due  to  improper  feeding.  The  first  result  is,  of  course, 
mtestinal  trouble,  either  diarrhoea  or  constipation.  The  latter  is 
more  easily  diagnosed,  as  the  evidences  are  a  distended  or 
bloated  condition  of  the  abdomen,  coupled  with  difficulty  in  void- 
ing excrement.  Over-feeding  and  improper  foods  are  the  main 
causes.  In  any  case  the  diet  should  be  cut  down — starvation  for 
a  few  days  will  not  hurt  the  fishes  in  the  least— and  afterwards 
they  should  be  fed  sparingly  on  prepared  fish-food  until  the 
symptoms  are  no  longer  observed. 

Another  disease  marked  by  a  bloated  appearance  is  that 
known  as  dropsy.  In  this  case  other  parts  than  the  abdomen  are 
affected,  and  the  distension  of  the  skin  causes  the  scales  to  stand 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA 


53 


COMMON   ROACH    IX    A    BALANCED   AQUARIUM. 
A  very  graceful  and   attractive   species. 


out,  producing  a  very  rough  appearance.  Nothing  definite  is 
known  as  to  the  cause  of  this  disease  and  if  it  has  made  much 
progress  there  seems  to  be  no  cure  for  it.  In  such  a  case  it  is 
better  to  kill  the  fish  at  once  and  thus  put  it  out  of  its  misery.  If 
the  fish  is  a  valuable  one  and  the  disease  is  incipient,  it  may  pay 
to  attempt  to  cure  it  by  putting  the  fish  on  a  scanty  diet  and  giv- 
ing it  a  tank  by  itself  where  it  will  have  plenty  of  room  and  the 
best  conditions  of  temperature,  light  and  oxygen. 

Chill  is  a  frequent  source  of  trouble  and  to  avoid  this  the  I 
fishes  should  be  kept  from  draughts  in  winter  and  water  should 
not  be  added  to  the  tank  until  it  has  been  warmed  to  the  tem-l 
perature  of  that  in  the  aquarium.    If  they  should  happen  to  be-l 
come  chilled,  remove  the  aquarium  to  a  warm  place  at  once  and[ 
put  in  some  warm  water  raising  the  temperature  to  80  or  8^ 
degrees,  afterward  allowing  it  to  fall  gradually  to  the  normal. 
If  prompt  action  is  taken  no  loss  should  occur.    Frequent  suddei 
changes    in    temperature  are  very  deleterious    and    should    b( 
avoided  absolutely. 

Other  diseases  are  known  to  occur  among  fishes,  but  ver^ 
few  of  them  have  been  studied  with  any  care.    Perhaps  the  besj 
known  is  the  thyroid  disease,  or  goitre,  of  the  salmonoid  fishes 
which  has  been  a  subject  of  much  investigation  in  recent  yean 
This  has  been  proved  to  result  from  improper  conditions  in  thl 


54  NEW  YORK  AQUARIUM   NATURE   SERIES 

hatching  and  breeding  tanks,  to  improper  feeding,  etc.,  and  the 
disease  yields  readily  enough  to  proper  treatment.  So  far  as 
known  this  condition  does  not  attack  inhabitants  of  the  small 
aquarium. 

Parasites :  These  may  be  plant  or  animal  and  are  either 
external  or  internal  in  their  mode  of  attack.  The  plant  para- 
sites are  either  fungus  {Saprolegnia,  etc.,  or  water  mold),  or 
bacteria.  The  fungus  is  perhaps  the  most  common  parasite  at- 
tacking aquarium  fishes.  The  disease  is  propagated  by  means  of 
very  minute  spores  carried  in  the  water.  Probably  fishes  that 
are  in  a  perfectly  healthy  condition  are  not  attacked,  but  if  any 
abrasion  occurs  on  the  skin,  an  opportunity  is  given  for  the  de- 
velopment of  the  spores,  or  if  the  fish  is  weak  and  anaemic,  the 
gills  or  the  tails,  especially  in  the  long-tailed  goldfishes,  may  be 
the  seat  of  attack.  The  first  evidence  of  the  disease  on  the  skin 
i?  the  presence  of  a  white  blotch  or  blotches,  which,  on  close 
inspection,  is  seen  to  be  made  up  of  minute  strands  (hyphae) 
having  something  the  appearance  of  absorbent  cotton.  If  not 
checked  at  once,  numerous  spores  will  be  produced  on  the  outer 
ends  of  these  threads,  and  be  disseminated  through  the  water  of 
the  aquarium  to  the  danger  of  other  fishes.  On  the  appearance 
of  this  disease  in  the  aquarium  it  is  best  to  remove  all  the  fish  at 
once  and  disinfect  the  aquarium  thoroughly.  This  may  be  done 
by  treating  the  tank  with  a  strong  solution  of  salt,  while  the 
plants  may  be  placed  for  a  few  hours  in  a  solution  of  phenol 
.sodique  (a  tablespoonful  to  a  gallon  of  water).  The  fish  at- 
tacked by  the  disease  should  be  removed  at  once  from  those  not 
affected  and  kept  separate  until  all  evidence  of  the  disease  has 
disappeared.  For  treatment  they  should  be  placed  in  a  three 
per  cent,  solution  of  common  salt  for  an  hour  or  so.  If  they  show 
any  signs  of  distress,  such  as  inability  to  keep  their  balance, 
after  they  have  been  in  the  salt  bath  a  while,  they  must  be 
removed  at  once  to  fresh  water.  The  treatment  should  be  re- 
peated daily  until  all  evidence  of  the  fungus  has  disappeared. 
This  treatment  applies  also  when  the  fungus  is  on  the  gills.  If 
the  disease  attacks  merely  the  skin,  it  may  also  be  treated  by 
local  application  of  a  50  per  cent,  solution  of  peroxide  of  hydro- 
gen, the  fish  being  removed  from  the  water  for  a  few  moments 
while  the  application  is  made.  A  solution  of  potassium  perman- 
ganate (dark  claret  color)  may  be  used  in  a  similar  way  for  local 
treatment,  or  the  fishes  may  be  placed  in  a  weak  solution  of  the 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA 


55 


YOUNG   MIRROR    CARP. 
The  carps  are  very  hardy  and  are  excellent  fishes  (or  the  beginner. 

permanganate  (light  claret  color)  until  signs  of  distress  appear, 
when  they  must  be  replaced  at  once  in  fresh  water. 

When  the  fungus  disease  has  made  much  progress  it  is  bet- 
ter trkill  the  fish  at  once  and  be  done  with  it,  for  there  is  little 
hope  of  saving  it  or  even  of  giving  it  a  presentable  appearance 
The  threads   or  hyphae,  of  the  fungus  work  their  way  into  the 
tissues  and  usually  the  best  that  can  be  accomplished  by  any 
reatmenris    to    remove  merely  the  external  growth  without 
veachTn^rthe   pernicious   internal   portion   which  continues  to 
deveS"    If  the  diseased  spot  is  small  and  not  too  near  a  vital 
part  i?  may  be  carefully  scraped  and  treated  with  the  peroxide 
or  p;rmanganate  solution  (deep  claret  color)  ^^d  thus  the  mter 
nnl  portions  of  the  parasite  may  be  reached  and  killed     When 
Te  dfseasrattacks  the  gills  there  is  practically  no  hope  of  saving 
ihe  Me  of  the  fish  as  the  growth  of  the  fungus  has  usually  pro- 
gressed to  a  critical  stage  before  it  becomes  noticeable. 
"       Eggs  of  fish  are  also  frequently  attacked  by  fungus  and  m 
this  case  all  eggs  diseased  must  be  removed  at  once 

Bacteria  —These  minute  organisms  attack  fishes  m  various 
wavs  The  skin  is  sometimes  affected  by  what  is  known  as  the 
•Se  disease"  in  which  the  skin  is  coated  with  a  whitish  mu- 
cuTukfsubstance.  In  the  so  called  "scurvy"  the  scales  are  p^r- 
Hnllv  erected  giving  a  rough  appearance.  The  gills  are  also 
attacked  by  tecteria  which  cause  the  filaments  to  become  aggluti- 
nated and  covered  with  a  thick  layer  of  mucous  which  prevents 


56  NEW  YORK  AQUARIUM   NATURE   SERIES 

their  functioning.  This  disease  is  known  among  fish  breeders  as 
'"tuberculosis."  The  *'red  disease"  of  the  skin  of  goldfish,  ide  and 
other  cyprinid  fishes  is  also  bacterial  in  origin.  The  weaker  per- 
manganate solution  and  a  2%  solution  of  common  salt  have  been 
used  with  some  success  in  the  treatment  of  these  diseases.  What 
part  bacteria  play  in  causing  internal  diseases  of  fishes  is  but 
little  known,  although  diseases  of  the  liver  and  other  internal 
organs  have  been  ascribed  to  this  cause. 

A^iimal  Parasites. — Apparently  these  are  much  more  nu- 
merous in  species  than  are  the  plant  parasites  and  they  belong  to 
several  classes.  Among  the  larger  ones  may  be  mentioned  the 
leeches,  crustacean  parasites  or  fish-lice  and  worms  (tape-worm, 
treinatode  and  round-worm) .  External  parasites,  if  large,  ordi- 
narily give  but  little  trouble  as  they  may  be  readily  removed  with 
fine  tweezers. 

Minute  species  of  trematodes  or  fluke-worms  (Gyrodactylus, 
etc.),  are  sources  of  great  loss,  at  times  causing  the  death  of 
whole  schools  of  goldfish.  These  tiny  parasites  are  almost  mi- 
croscopic, but  can  readily  be  seen  with  an  ordinary  lens.  On 
young  fish  they  may  be  found  all  over  the  body  and  even  in  older 
specimens  they  may  occur  in  such  numbers  upon  the  skin  that 
they  produce  serious  sores,  but  adult  specimens  are  more  fre- 
quently injured  by  attacks  on  the  gills.  Sal  ammoniac  in  one- 
half  per  cent,  solution,  common  salt  in  two  per  cent,  solution,  and 
potassium  permanganate  in  the  weaker  solution,  say  one  part  to 
10,000  are  all  recommended  for  treatment.  However,  when  the 
parasites  attack  the  gills  in  large  numbers  it  is  practically  im- 
possible to  effect  a  cure,  as  any  treatment  fatal  to  the  parasites  is 
likely  also  to  prove  fatal  to  the  fish. 

Internal  parasites,  as  a  rule,  cannot  be  diagnosed,  but  they 
seldom  cause  much  trouble  among  aquarium  fishes.  To  be  sure 
many  forms  of  parasitic  worms  have  been  described  as  inhabit- 
ing the  intestinal  tract  or  embedded  in  the  flesh.  But  even  if  it 
were  possible  to  diagnose  these  cases  in  life,  it  would  probably 
be  impossible  to  eflfect  any  cures. 

A  number  of  species  of  unicellular  parasites  (Protozoa)  at- 
tack the  skin  of  various  fishes  in  the  aquarium.  Usually  the 
presence  of  the  parasites  becomes  evident  to  the  naked  eye  as 
minute  whitish  flecks  or  protuberances  on  the  skin.  The  fish 
becomes  languid  in  its  movements,  refuses  to  take  food  and 
breathes  rapidly  in  a  labored  manner.  Two  of  the  better  known 
of  these  parasites,  Costia  and  Chilodon,  attack  the  skin  exter- 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA 


57 


STICKLEBACKS. 

These   miniatiue    fishes    are    found    both    in    fresli    and    salt   water.      Their 
nesting    habits    are    especially    interesting. 

nally  and  often  cause  serious  losses.  The  two  per  cent,  solution 
of  common  salt  and  the  weaker  solution  of  potassium  perman- 
ganate are  recommended,  baths  of  one-half  hour  duration  being 
given  daily  until  the  disease  is  eradicated.  Another  protozoan 
attacking  the  skin,  which  is  a  far  more  serious  pest,  is  Ichthyo- 
phthirms,  which  burrows  into  the  epidermis  producing  minute 
capsules.  Fish  attacked  by  this  parasite  behave  much  as  in  the 
case  of  those  just  mentioned.  Owing  to  the  fact  that  the  para- 
sites are  embedded  in  the  skin,  treatment  is  more  difficult.  Sub- 
jecting the  fish  daily  for  an  hour  or  so  to  a  water  temperature  of 
ho  to  32  degrees  Centigrade  (86  to  90  Fahr.)  is  said  to  be  effiica- 
cious  in  producing  a  cure.  Also  daily  treatment  with  8  per  cent, 
solution  of  common  salt  as  long  as  the  fish  can  stand  it  is  recom- 
mended. 

Protozoa,  belonging  to  the  group  known  as  Myxosporiclia, 
are  of  rather  common  occurrence  and  are  responsible  for  some 
loss.  These  one-celled  parasites  penetrate  the  tissues  and  in  the 
later  stages  of  development  cause  tumor-like  growths.  These 
may  affect  the  internal  organs  such  as  the  liver,  spleen,  kidney  or 
reproductive  glands,  in  which  case  their  presence  is  not  suspected 
until  the  fish  die.  Frequently,  however,  the  cysts  are  formed 
imder  the  skin,  producing  unsightly  swellings  on  the  surface 


58  NEW  YORK  AQUARIUM   NATURE   SERIES 

known  commonly  as  fish-pox.  Eventually  the  cysts  or  swellings 
break  and  numerous  spore-like  cells  are  liberated.  As  it  is  by 
means  of  these  spores  that  the  disease  spreads,  the  affected  fishes 
should  be  removed  as  soon  as  the  swellings  make  their  appear- 
ance. There  is  no  specific  for  this  disease,  but  the  cysts  may  be 
lanced,  and  peroxide  of  hydrogen  or  the  stronger  solution  of  po- 
tassium permanganate  introduced  into  the  wound  with  a  small 
pipette.  If  the  cysts  are  small  and  not  too  near  a  vital  part,  the 
fish  sometimes  recovers  without  treatment,  but,  as  a  rule,  the 
disease  is  fatal.  Both  fresh  and  salt  water  fishes  are  attacked  by 
these  protozoan  parasites,  but  fortunately  the  cultivated  forms 
of  aquarium  fishes  are  seldom  aflfected.  Wild  fishes,  such  as  min- 
nows, killifishes,  etc.,  may  have  the  disease  in  its  early  stages 
when  taken,  and,  if  later  the  swellings  which  cause  the  disease 
should  make  their  appearance,  the  aflfected  fishes  should  be  iso- 
lated at  once  for  treatment,  or  if  not  valuable  it  is  better  to 
destroy  them. 


THE  CA'iE  OF  YOUNG  FISHES. 

The  breeding  habits  of  aquarium  fishes  vary  to  such  an 
extent  that  it  is  practically  impossible  to  lay  down  any  general 
rules  to  cover  all  cases.  Nor  is  it  possible  here  to  more  than  out- 
line the  methods  of  treatment  for  a  few  of  the  many  species. 

According  to  their  manner  of  reproduction,  fishes  naturally 
form  two  classes.  Some  species,  such  as  the  goldfishes,  stickle- 
backs and  chanchitos  are  oviparous  and  lay  eggs  which  later 
hatch  out  into  the  young.  Others,  like  the  swordtailed  minnows 
(Xiphophoriis)  and  topminnows  (Gamhusia) ,  are  viviparous  or 
live-bearing  and  bring  forth  living  young.  Practically  all  fishes 
are  cannibalistic  in  habit  at  certain  stages  and  do  not  hesitate  to 
eat  even  their  own  young.  In  the  case  of  the  live-bearing  fishes, 
a  good  method  of  protecting  the  young  is  to  place  a  plate  of  glass 
m  a  slanting  position  in  the  aquarium  so  as  to  shut  ofl^  the  adults 
at  one  side.  The  glass  should  fit  loosely  enough  so  that  the  young 
fishes  can  find  their  way  into  the  body  of  the  tank  past  the'^edges 
of  the  glass,  while  the  adults  are  unable  to  do  so.  After  the  birth 
of  the  young,  the  adults  should  be  removed  to  another  jar.  The 
swollen  appearance  of  the  female  is  an  indication  that  the  pre- 
hmmary  arrangements  should  be  made. 

In  the  case  of  the  nest  building  oviparous  fishes,  such  as  the 
sticklebacks  and  chanchitos,  the  eggs  are  cared  for  by  the  adults 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA 


59 


TUBULARIA   AND   ASTRANGIA,    OR    WHITE    CORAL,    EXPANDED. 


until  the  young  hatch  out,  and  often  for  a  considerable  period 
after  this.  The  adults  may  be  removed,  however,  as  soon  as  the 
young  have  made  their  appearance  and  begin  to  swim  about. 

As  goldfishes  are  reared  with  much  more  frequency  than  any 
other  fish,  it  may  be  well  to  go  into  the  matter  a  little  more  fully 
with  them.  The  sexes  can  be  distinguished  readily  as  breeding 
time  approaches  by  the  fact  that  the  belly  of  the  female  is  greatly 
distended  with  eggs,  while  the  male  is  more  slender.  The  dif- 
ference in  form  is  much  more  evident  from  the  top  than  from 
the  side  view.  They  can  be  distinguished  also  by  watching  their 
actions,  as  the  male  tends  to  chase  the  female  about  the  tank,  and 
becomes  much  more  active  in  this  a  day  or  so  before  the  time  for 
egg  laying.  If  there  is  an  abundance  of  vegetation  in  the  tank, 
and  if  the  aquarist  is  not  particularly  anxious  to  secure  the  very 
best  results,  he  may  allow  nature  to  take  its  course,  in  which  cas( 
some  of  the  eggs  will  be  attached  to  the  plants  during  oviposition, 
while  others  will  fall  to  the  bottom,  probably  to  be  lost.  Am 
fishes  not  engaged  in  the  processes  of  egg-laying  or  fertilizatioi 
may  also  occupy  themselves  in  eating  some  of  the  eggs.  At  an: 
rate,  after  the  eggs  are  laid,  all  the  adults  should  be  removed  t( 
another  tank,  for  if  they  are  left  with  the  eggs  they  may  eat 
large  portion  of  them  and  also  devour  the  young  fishes  after  the: 
emerge. 


60  NEW  YORK  AQUARIUM   NATURE   SERIES 

Probably  the  best  method  for  securing  the  highest  percent- 
age of  young  is  that  of  placing  a  cheesecloth  net  in  the  aquarium. 
This  should  be  partially  filled  with  water  plants  and  a  breeding 
female  with  one  or  more  males  placed  in  it  as  the  time  for  egg- 
laying  approaches.  After  the  process  is  complete,  the  fishes  may 
be  replaced  in  the  body  of  the  tank,  the  plants  removed  to  an- 
other jar  or  breeding  pan,  and,  if  any  eggs  have  adhered  to  the 
net,  as  is  usually  the  case,  it  also  may  be  placed  in  the  breeding 
pan. 

When  the  young  emerge,  they  will,  of  course,  need  to  be  fed. 
The  natural  food  of  the  young  goldfish  consists  of  minute  Crus- 
tacea and  other  tiny  water  animals  and  these  may  be  reared  in 
cultures  ready  for  their  use.  If  this  is  not  possible,  they  may  be 
fed  on  the  yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  finely  rubbed  up,  and  they 
will  thrive  well  on  this  diet.  As  they  get  a  little  older  fine  por- 
tions of  prepared  fish  food  may  be  added.  Boiled  oatmeal  and 
other  cereals  strained  through  a  fine  sieve  or  coarse  cloth  are  also 
recommended.  Care  must  naturally  be  taken  not  to  overfeed  to 
the  extent  that  the  water  becomes  contaminated. 


THE  USES  OF  LENSES. 

The  observation  of  the  smaller  life  of  the  aquarium  is  ren- 
dered easier  and  much  more  attractive  by  the  use  of  lenses.  For 
the  study  of  the  very  minute  forms  nothing  will  suffice,  of  course, 
except  the  compound  microscope.  For  those  which  are  some- 
what larger  and  yet  too  small  to  be  well  observed  by  the  naked 
eye,  the  simpler  hand  lens  will  be  satisfactory.  Even  a  large- 
sized  reading  glass,  magnifying  only  two  or  three  diameters,  is 
very  useful,  and  may  be  arranged  to  stand  permanently  before 
the  aquarium  jar.  A  cabinet,  which  has  been  in  use  at  the  New 
York  Aquarium  for  some  years,  is  arranged  so  as  to  cut  out  the 
view  of  everything  except  what  can  be  seen  through  the  lens  and 
it  is  lighted  by  incandescent  lights  placed  behind  the  aquarium 
jars.  A  reading-glass  is  easily  arranged  in  a  light  frame  of  wood 
placed  in  front  of  an  aquarium  lighted  from  a  window.  By  this 
means  the  exhibition  of  aquatic  insects  and  larvae,  the  smaller 
crustaceans,  hydroids,  sea-anemones,  sea-mosses,  etc.,  may  be 
made  very  attractive  with  little  expense. 

For  the  study  of  very  young  fish,  mosquito  larvae,  small 
crustaceans,  etc.,  it  is  advisable  to  have  lenses  of  higher  magnify- 
ing power.     Those  magnifying  six  or  eight  times  are  perhaps 


THE  CARE  OF  HOME  AQUARIA  61 

best  for  the  beginner  since  the  higher  powers  have  a  smaller 
field  and  are  increasingly  difficult  to  manage. 

THE  STUDY  OF  AQUARIA. 

The  aquarium  student  will  naturally  be  interested  in  obtain- 
ing all  the  information  he  can,  not  only  on  the  care  and  manage- 
ment of  his  aquarium,  but  also  with  regard  to  the  natural  history 
of  his  animals  and  plants.  There  are  several  means  of  accom- 
plishing this  end. 

In  the  first  place,  the  aquarium  society  affords  a  splendid 
opportunity  for  comparing  notes  with  others  who  are  interested, 
and  many  of  the  problems  that  confront  the  beginner  can  be 
solved  immediately  in  conference  with  more  experienced  aquar- 
ists.  Also  much  information  regarding  the  habits  and  life  his- 
tories of  aquarium  plants  and  animals  may  be  obtained  in  the 
same  manner,  and  a  good  opportunity  is  presented  for  the  ex- 
change of  specimens.  Aquarium  societies  exist  in  New  York, 
Brooklyn,  Philadelphia,  Chicago,  Minneapolis,  Boston  and  Mil- 
waukee, but  the  number  should  be  greatly  increased.  In  every 
city  there  are  many  people  interested  in  aquaria,  and  it  often 
happens  that  a  small  society  will  do  better  work  than  a  larger 
one,  on  account  of  the  greater  opportunity  for  personal  contact 
and  informal  discussion. 

Secondly,  a  vast  amount  of  information  can  best  be  obtained 
through  the  published  works  dealing  with  the  subject.  The  ap- 
pended list  includes  only  such  as  are  contained  in  the  New  York 
Aquarium  library,  all  of  which  can  be  recommended  to  the  ama- 
teur aquarist.  There  are  undoubtedly  many  other  useful  books 
on  this  subject.  Most  of  those  issued  by  American  publishers  are 
still  to  be  obtained  from  the  regular  booksellers,  but  a  few  are 
out  of  print  and  can  only  be  picked  up  occasionally  from  the  sec- 
ond-hand dealers. 

Thirdly,  there  are  numerous  foreign  and  one  American  jour- 
nal devoted  to  the  small  aquarium  and  its  inhabitants.  Subscrip- 
tion to  at  least  one,  preferably  The  Aquarmm,  which  is  pub- 
lished jointly  by  the  American  societies,  is  strongly  recom- 
mended as  the  best  means  of  keeping  in  touch  with  advancement 
in  the  study  of  aquaria  and  aquarium  organisms. 


PUBLICATIONS  OF  INTEREST  TO   THE  AQUARIST. 


OLDER    WORKS. 

The  Aquarium.—  An  unveiling  of  the  wonders  of  the  deep  sea.  With 
colored  plates.     By  Philip  Henry  Gosse,  A.L.A.     Van  Voorst,  London,  1854. 

To(>ular  llistorx  of  the  Aquarium  of  Marine  and  Fresh  Water  Animals  and 
Flams.       With  colored  plates.      By  G.   B.   Sowerby,  F.L.S.   Reeve,   London, 
IS.')?. 

Oeeau  ilardens.—  The  history  of  the  marine  aquarium,  and  the  best 
methods  now  adopted  for  its  establishment  and  preservation.  With  col- 
ored plates.  By  H.  Noel  Humphreys,  Samson  Low  Son  &  Co.,  London, 
1857. 

The  Aquarium  Xaluralisi.— ^  manual  for  the  seaside,  with  a  chapter 
on  aquaria.  Colored  plates.  By  Thos.  Rymer  Jones,  F.R.S.  Van  Voorst, 
London,  1858. 

The  Fresh  and  Salt  Water  Aquarium.— ^^ith  colored  plates.  By  Rev.  J. 
C.  Wood,  M.A.,  F.L.S.     Routledge  &  Sons,  London,  1868. 

The  I-am.ily  Aquarium.—  The  construction,  stocking  and  maintenance  of 
fresh  water  and  marine  aquaria.  By  H.  D.  Butler.  Dick  &  Fitzgerald, 
New  York.   1858. 

RECENT    WORKS. 

The  Amateur  Aquarist.— How  to  equip  and  maintain  a  self-sustaining 
aquarium.  Illustrated.  By  Mark  Samuel.  Baker  &  Taylor  Co.,  New 
York,  1894. 

77/t'  Aquarium.—  Its  inhabitants,  structure  and  management.  Illus- 
trated.    By  .T.  E.  Taylor,  Ph.D.     New  Edition,  Grant,  Edinburgh,  1901. 

77k:  Book'  of  Aquaria.  -  Being  a  practical  guide  to  the  construction, 
arrangement  and  management  of  fresh  water  and  marine  aquaria.  Illus- 
trated. By  the  Rev.  Gregory  C.  Bateman,  A.K.C.,  and  Reginald  A.  R. 
Bennett.  M.A.  Part  I,  Fresh  Water  Aquaria,  Part  II,  Marine  Aquaria. 
Scribner's,  New   York,   1902. 

The  Home  .Iquaniim,  and  lloz<-  to  Care  for  //.^- A  guide  to  its  fishes,  and 
other  animals  and  plants,  with  many  illustrations.  By  Eugene  Smith. 
Duttons,  New  York,  1902. 

77.,'  I'resh  Water  Aquarium  and  Its  Inhabitants.—  -^  practical  guide,  de- 
scribing especially  the  plants  and  animals  suitable  for  aquarium  purposes, 
and  with  r-hapters  on  feeding  and  tish  diseases.  Illustrated  by  E.  F.  Kel- 
ler and  E.  R.  Sanborn.  By  O.  Eggeling  and  F.  Ehrenberg.  Holt  &  Co., 
New  York.  190S. 

Das  .Susszi.asser-.l(iuariun!.  A  practical  guide  in  the  German.  Illus- 
trated. By  Dr.  E.  Bade.  Fritz  Pfennigstorff,  Berlin,  1909.  Can  be  ob- 
tained through  dealers  importing  German  books. 

Domesticated  Fish. —  Care  and  culture  of  ornamental  domestic  and 
foreign  fish.  By  W.  L.  Brind,  500  Isham  St.,  New  York.  The  first  part 
of  this  work  has  just  been  issued. 


THE  CARE  OF   HOME  AQUARIA  63 

GOLDFISH    CULTURE. 

The  Goldfish  tnid  Its  Systematic  Culture. —  A  thorough  guide  for  gold- 
fish keeping  and  goldfisli  breeding  in  tlie  house  and  out  of  doors.  The 
construction  and  care  of  tlie  parlor  aquarium  and  of  ponds  for  breeding. 
Illustrated.     By  Hugo  Mulertt,  New  York,  19  02. 

Goldfish  Breeds  and  Other  Aquarium  /•'/^Vk'^.— Their  correct  propagation. 
A  guide  to  fresli  water  and  marine  aquaria,  their  flora,  fauna  and  man- 
agement.    Illustrated.     By  H.  T.  Wolf.     Innes  &  Sons,  Philadelphia,  1908. 

Japanese  Goldfishes,  Their  Varieties  and  Cultivation. —  A  practical  guide 
to  the  .Japanese  methods  of  goldfish  culture  for  amateurs  and  profes- 
sionals. Illustrated,  with  numerous  colored  plates.  By  H.  M.  Smith,  U.  S. 
Deputy  Commissioner  of  Fisheries.     W.  T.  Roberts  Co.,  Washington,  19  09. 

VIVARIA. 

The  J^ivarium. —  Being  a  practical  guide  to  the  construction,  arrange- 
ment and  management  of  vivaria.  Illustrated.  By  Rev.  Gregory  C.  Bate- 
man,  A.K.C.     Gill,  London,   1897. 

JOURNALS. 

The  Aquarium. —  This  is  the  only  journal  published  in  America  devoted 
entirely  to  the  small  aquarium.     It  is  issued  each  month,  jointly,  by  the 
aquarium   societies   of  America   "in    the  interests  of  the  study,   care  and 
breeding  of  aquatic  life,"  at  one  dollar  a  year.      Editor,  .J.  N.  Gage,   8   S. 
Dearborn  St.,-  Chicago,   111. 

NATURAL     HISTORY 

Ponds  and  Ditches. —  A  description  of  the  plants,  animals  and  condi- 
tions of  life  in  quiet  fresh  waters.  Illustrated.  By  M.  C.  Cooke.  E.  & 
J.  B.  Young  &  Co.,  New  York,  188  5. 

Ocean  Wonders. —  A  companion  for  the  seaside.  With  a  chapter  on 
marine  and  fresh  water  aquaria.  Illustrated.  By  William  E.  Damon. 
Appleton's,  New  York,  189  6. 

Life  in  Ponds  and  Streams.— ^yith  a  chapter  on  aquaria.  Colored 
plates.  By  W.  Furneaux,  F.R.G.  Longmans,  Green  &  Co.,  New  York, 
1896. 

The  Sea  Beach  at  Ebb  Tide. —  A  guide  to  the  study  of  the  sea  weeds 
and  the  lower  animal  life  between  tide  marks.  Illustrated.  By  A.  F. 
Arnold.     The  Century  Co.,  New  York,   1901. 

The  Sea  Shore. —  Dealing  with  marine  animals  and  plants  and  with  a 
chapter  on  the  salt  water  aquarium.  Illustrated.  By  W.  S.  Furneaux. 
Longmans,   Green  &  Co.,  New  York,    19  03. 

Sea  Shore  Life.—  The    invertebrates   of   the   New    York    Coast    (Vol.    I 
New   York   Aquarium   Nature   Series).      181   pages   and    119    illustrations. 
By  Dr.  A.  G.  ^Nlayer.     For  sale  at  the  Aquarium  and  by  A.  S.  Barnes  and 
Company,  New  York. 


Library 
W.  C,  State  Collar 


